Search results for query: *

I believe that temp sensor is simply a temperature variable resistor. In that case polarity would not matter.

Looks non-stock to me as well.

No click points to a possible open circuit in the NSS. Possible out of adjustment on the cable (assuming stock automatic).

There are actually at least two different female connectors. The high amperage one is a little different than those. If you notice those are also for 18-20 gauge wire. Will they work? Probably, but I would prefer the correct connectors.

Solenoid pulls some current. Otherwise the wire wouldn't be as big as it is. I burned out one bump switch years ago. I also like the NSS being in the circuit (won't mention the time my son had to chase down the runaway Barracuda and jump in...oh, yeah, I did mention it...).

I'm going to politely disagree with the above posts about the best way to hook up the starter button. It will work that way, but there's a lot of current going through the switch that way. Best way, in my opinion, is to pull the yellow (IGN) wire off the relay and put one clip of the switch on...

Sounds right. I've got a harness out in the garage somewhere that I made up years ago. These are the best diagrams that I have. Looks like the 12v feed is probably the same as the backup lamp switch in '67 and '68. It will be separate in '69 due to the change in the backup lamp switch.

It depends on which side of the fuse it is on.

Lighter may or may not be hot all the time (I think it may vary by year). Dome/map/glove box light have constant hot. Connected to the ammeter is also a good spot, but make sure it is fused if you go that route. Bear in mind that the convertible top switch gets hot straight from the RED side of...

The "P" designation was on all Direct Connection and Mopar Performance parts. I believe it started with Hustle Stuff. It was to differentiate DC parts from the other parts and likely just stands for performance...

Seems reasonable to assume that the IVR in the fuel gauge you chose is only "on" about half the time that the other one is on. Probably a good time to go solid state. I built one into my son's fuel gauge. Right now my fuel gauge is still stock, but it may get solid state before the car hits the...

I replaced my fusible link with a maxi fuse, actually two of them due to the other changes I made to wiring. Started with one the TII FWD cars as they had multiple links in one unit and the fix to one of them blown was to cut the wire open and wire in a new link.

By the way, the 273 was a V8, not a six. Get the 273 harness.

Maybe time to figure out how to make a mold and make them yourself...and then sell them...

Likely bad ground cable. Replace it and move on.

I don't know about with headers, but my #6 is much easier from underneath.

To keep the somewhat stock appearance on mine (and to revert back if I ever need to) I took an old ballast resistor and removed the resistor. Then I took some 14 gauge solid from some romex and soldered that to the connectors in the ballast. Looks like it's still there and looks better than a...

NOTHING is ever hurt by extra ground wires. In addition to what you say, consider how good the ground is while adjusting the timing with a distributor mounted module. I'll keep the extra ground wire even though that wasn't likely my problem.

I've got an automotive scope, but I need to fix one of the high voltage pickups (or find new...). I'd like to have a scope to fix a couple of my old stereos, but that's all back burner stuff at this time.

I don't know on the Blaster II. I've got one of those sitting around as well. That was my original plan until the SS dropped into my lap...I love free parts, but it really wasn't free as I gave the guy some of my parts for his '73 Cuda and gave him some labor as well (long story of a car that...

First thing to check on a no crank with the key situation is the fusible link. It is a simple circuit as stated above. Also, I can see that all safety interlocks are out of the circuit due to the ground wire from the relay to the mounting bolt. Before proceeding further I would also suggest...

I'm running an MSD SS. I believe it is an E-coil. I got it in a pile of parts.

Fired the 440 up for a short time today. First impression is that added ground wire has helped a bunch. Didn't want too many exhaust fumes to get into the house so I didn't run it very long. Need to pull it out of the garage next week for a longer test.

I bought the adapter that mounts to the underside of the distributor. I have had an on again, off again problem that I hope I solved with a ground wire to the engine block. Ignition would just stop. I haven't fired it up yet, but we'll find out. Mopar HEI Conversion

Proform is cheap Chinese Mopar knockoff. Try another distributor...

There is a Ford fuel sender float that is supposed to be the same thing (on a later model). Might be able to find it.

It would not have automatic park. Then again, as I recall, neither did my folks '63 Belvedere...

Pull the sender and inspect it first. There are some common failures including broken resistance wire on the unit. Also a sunk float is the most common cause of the gauge moving a little with the tank full. Make sure the sending unit is well-grounded, too.

As I understand it the purpose is to turn off the ignition switch light in a certain short time frame (10 seconds or so). The only Mopar that I've driven that had that was my folks '69 Fury III. It turns that light on when you open the door and times the light off after the predetermined time.

The main wires in the bulkhead did not change from rallye to standard, but there may be a few differences. I'd have to check to see if I have a '70 wiring diagram for the rallye dash. There were changes nearly every year, though.