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should look like these, more or less...2" long and 7/16"

About the same as Robs.:rolleyes: OK, I stole his diagram and modified it...:lol:

Check the wiring for a short. I had a similar problem and it was a bare wire causing the extra load.

same piece...love it. super simple and a $9 replacement module. MSD Blaster 2 coil. Fires off so quick I barely hear the starter. While your at it...upgrade the lighting and charging systems and ditch the VReg. Really cleans up the firewall:thumbsup:

[FOR SALE] - Plug and play - Headlight Relay Kits its in there...depends on 2 or 4 headlights, model, etc. excellent investment in your safety, in my opinion. the one I have made a big, big difference.

cut one off another harness and splice in

oil pressure and eng temp along with tach. get the long braided stainless line for oil press gauge. well worth it, no question. old wall switch for power off/on and remote starter switch for the starter itself. battery at bottom of cart keeps weight low. ready to run dist. 2 wires and a coil.

I remember seeing a bigblock version of this same dist., small cap, external coil... heres one... Ready-to-Run Elect Distributor Chrysler Dodge MOPAR 413 426 - KIT # WPM-6714+30 | eBay

:D

I just went with a new distributor that had the module in it already. About $50 on EBay...skipwhite or whites speed shop...still available afik. 2 wires, no ballast, no ecu, nada. $8 spare module, 5 minute swap. Working great so far with at least 30 hours run time on it.

My first thought as well. About $50 on ebay...small base GM hei style dist. Got mine thru skipwhite. Fits the v8 A body very well. Works awesome on my 360. 2 wire hookup, blaster coil and that's it.

yes. inexpensive part and easy to replace. check the connections on the floor switch. check the harness ground wire connections for the headlights as well.

Nice way to talk to a new guy...so welcoming..:rolleyes:

Nothing to do with looks. By rule A trunk mounted battery REQUIRES a cut off switch to run at the track. You should use a cut off switch and relays. The cable running forward to the starter should only be hot when cranking.

Trunk mounted battery? How is the switch you now have wired in? Switch amp rating needed will depend on what runs through it... and that can vary a lot...

Well, perfection....achieved!:thumbsup: And where did I find this? right here... Free service manuals post number 40, iirc. Perhaps my luck is turning...fingers crossed!:D

Dammit, perfection eludes me once again! :lol: My guess is this has something to do with it being an a/c car. Or maybe its just my luck...lol Thank you gentlemen!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the assist! I've done a lot of searching with all kinds of variations on the wording, on several search engines. zkx14 does it show one like the 2 pages you posted in post #3 above but correct for the bulkhead/harness I have? That might just be perfect...

I do not have that one. I only need the one diagram, not the entire cars electrical. I parted the 76 years ago and want to "customize" the dash harness to use in another A. Do you have it? A picture of the "correct" diagram would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks. Some mid 70's B's had a similar bulkhead, but different "keys". The diagrams from them dont match up either. I've looked through all the A's from 73-76 and nothing even has the 10 fuse block let alone the 32 connector spaces.

Any of the diagrams I have or have seen dont even match a lot of the wire colors/pin locations. I have not seen one A body diagram with the type of bulkhed connector I have, plus mine is numbered 1 to 32 not A to Z.

Looking for the same thing for a 76 Duster harness. The diagrams I find are not a match. Like the above diagram they only show 8 fuses where mine has 10, and 24 wire spaces on the bulkhead connector labeled A to Z where mine has 32 wire spaces labeled 1 to 32. Appears to be a different bulkhead...

no ballast, no ecu box.

Same one I picked up off Ebay from skipwhite....aka whitesperformance1. Mine is on the 360 in the Demon. Has worked quite well so far through the break-in and first few hours of runtime. No ballast required.