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A good semi-metalic pad is my recommendation. I'm looking for a new set as well. Having said that, it looks like semi-metalic pads for the Kelsey Hayes brakes are starting to dry up. Great eh ? Again, tons of reading in the brake forum. Hope this helps.

Well not knowing what you have isn't helping. You could have some s*** organic pads on there, which isn't cutting it. Semi-Metalic would be my choice for best performance. This could be as easy as brake pads. I would also suggest the brake forum, and do a search. Years of info there.

What kind of pads do you have ?

I'm kind of going through the same issue. Took the 70 Dart out today, and wasn't happy with the stopping power at high speed. Small bolt, manual Kelsey Hayes brakes, 14" wheels. My plan of attack will be to scuff/clean the front rotors, and find the latest, greatest front pads. Then take off the...

Well **** howdy !!!!! I have had an aluminum MC on my 65 Dart for years !!!!! Would have been nice to know. So are we saying there is different pressures, or timming during braking ?

I guess I spoke in Pig Latin ?

I have found the best way to install the rubber grommet into the MC, is to use a long socket the size of the grommet and simply tap it in, or push it in until it bottoms out. Once that's done, install the MC and its 4 nuts. Next, install the push rod to the brake pedal. Put a little lubricant...

To remove the push rod out of the MC. Remove the brake switch, and pull back on the brake pedal. Pop...Out it comes. PS: Get the correct rubber grommet, and not a piece of rubber hose, o-ring, bubble gum wrapper. It's your life we are talking about Brakes are important, get the right part.

The back reservoir in the mc, is for the front brakes. The front reservoir is for the back brakes. The reservoir for the front brakes is larger because the front brakes wear quicker, using more fluid. You may have a drum brake master cylinder pictured. If both reservoirs are the same size, it is...

As far up that azz as you are, you would think you would have some kind of clue. Duh.

Weve given up on you long ago....lmfao

Dude..........WTF ? You dig willwood brakes, thats Great ! We're all happy for you ! Share your opinion, and move on. I see you are new around here (2016). Theres absolutely no reason to disrespect the members of this Great site. And you "Have" disrespected a few on this thread alone. Its a...

Brakes are the most important part of a car. Why anybody would use anything, but the correct part (rubber grommet)which is readily available, is beyond me. This isn't the time to play junior scientist. Get the correct parts for your brakes, your life will thank you.

Lighter is better, for the street. Aluminum intakes, heads,wheels, etc. Anything to shave weight,every pound counts. The other difference is bore sizes. Not going to get into that right now, hitting the rack. Im sure someone else will chime in.

In general, you should be matching your master cylinder bore to the bore size of your calipers. Since you are using a 73 disc setup, I would go with the 73 MC. The newer MC is aluminum, making it lighter. The bore size is more than likely different as well.I have one in one of my Darts, and...

Dot 5 all the way. All around better brake fluid. Just like synthetic oils, technology people.

Disc, Drum ?

I dont even know you, so I cant doubt your skill set. But I do question your jugement. This is brakes we're talking about here ! You can stick what ever you want in your MC O ring, bicycle tube, bubble gum. Dont matter to me. I prefer to use the correct part from the factory. The part that the...

Really...Your life is worth $5 ? Wow. Its official, you get the. "Come on man" of the day. :)

Not sure if you bought a new MC, but if you did, it should have come with a new rubber grommet.

Brakes are important, not something you should skimp on. Get the proper bushing.

And that's really old. :D

Yah, that doesnt sound right. Sounds like you have some bad calipers.

Its not the fluid. Something is not tight enough, or you recieved some bad parts.

That very well may be, but at least "Our" brakes work. :blob:

Not sure what to say here, other than your parts selection is very questionable. On top of that, not sure why you would mess with the original brake rod, when it should be a bolt in process. I get it, hot rodding is cool. But when it comes to stopping, I like to keep it real. I would have...

To remove: Leave the MC bolted in. Remove the brake light switch. Pull back on the brake pedal. The brake rod is now out of the MC. To install: Install new rubber grommet into MC. Use a soccet the same size as the grommet, and pop it in. Bolt MC to firewall. Bring brake pedal with brake rod...

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" Getting wrapped up in it " wasnt directed at you, sorry you took it that way. What I was trying to say, was as a whole, many people get all wrapped up in the bore thing. I have used different disc MC's, and in my experience, they all feel the same.