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We work direct with the factory, and ours come down the same line as other famous brands, and go in BluePrint boxes. I have been to the factory, and actually helped setup the end of line testing, including vac advance operation, tach signal function And clarify, mechanical advance and curve...

That's a fact! Thanks !

You know me you goofball. lol. And yes, you got it. Billet "MSD style" distributors. Same ones we use in the engines, we sell them retail also. We sell a bunch of accessory style parts. Distributors They are a Ready to run, stand alone.

Just a heads up, you posted both male and female terminal wires. Make sure you order the correct ones for your distributor. Personally I like to assemble my own to avoid the spaghetti and run them the length I like. Moroso makes ours. 8mm Spark Plug Wire Set - 180° Boots - Chrysler and...

This is why all my old cars have a stand alone ignition system and a 1 wire alternator...many of these cars are too old, and been through too many owners, to go chasing 50 year old wiring. No offense to anyone that likes to chase wires, and keep thier cars original, there Is surely a place...

i tried 3 different pulley diameters with my Tuff stuff, it was just a dud.

They may, I know they make it in a serpentine also. Would just have to call and ask them. I run thier crank pulley also. They do seem to have plenty of options.

For what it's worth, I just upgraded to the black version of this one and I absolutely love it. Chrysler 1 Wire Alternator, 100 Amp, Chrome Plated V-Belt Pulley CVF warranties thier accessories for life. Have had awesome luck with them, and I own 2 of thier systems. I had a "140 amp" Tuff...

my mind went there too initially, Not sure. I may not find the chicken or the egg on this one. It obviously needs both at this point. always something :p

Agree 100%, just talking out loud. I did wonder how many others have seen it. I've never killed a battery before in this manner (literally while driving). first time for everything!

About 4 years old. It won't even trickle charge above 4-5 volts. No visible water in trunk (where battery was until I pulled it this morning) The audible noise from the alternator, and the fact it was super hot when touch kind of tell me it was the culprit in this one, and the casualty was...

I'm on the same train for sure lol.

Yuck! I should point out its a 1 wire chrysler converted alt. 110 I believe. Probably 5 years old.

Hey all! Had an odd occurance today, and wanted to see if anyone one had any words of wisdom. Many of you know I have a 600hp+ smallblock, that I bracket race, and occasionally street drive on e85. Here's what happened today. Going Down the road, 1 mile into a maybe 7 mile drive, I start...

I have had a battery disconnect in my trunk for a long time. I shut it off more for parasitic slow drain, than I do fear of fires. I also agree that even though these old cars don't have security systems or fancy radios draining the battery, there are many things as noted above that still get...

I had an engine bay main harness ground come loose years ago,on my 74, and if I recall, I had markers, but no headlights, and turn signals didn't flash. Mine was on the radiator support, which I don't recall if that's the factory location, but should be front driver side somewhere on the rad...

i thought about trying to put in a momentary switch that sent power back to the..."normal ground" but then the other switch would have to be in the off position, and you'd have to have a way to ground the otherwise 12V wire...or there may have been a different wire altogether that the ground...

I'm with you guys. i don't know squat about the original circuit, and my Dart hasn't had wipers or wiper motor in it for probably 10 years, so i didn't have anything to compare to. on this 78 i wanted it to remain more of a street car, with a functional heater, wipers, etc. I downloaded an...

I did not. The generic switch did not park the wipers. I used a double position rocker switch and just "bump" it to park, which I could have done with the universal one too, but everything else in the car is custom and already had a multi rocker panel. The original switch basically came apart...

I haven't read the whole thread but I had the internal pickup module inside the distributor go bad some years back. It would start 20 times, then crank with no spark like the coil was unhooked. Then sit an hour, and be 100% fine. Never stalled once running. Just no spark no starts. Was...

Hey Rick, happy to try and help. Looks like you have a bunch going on, and alot of chefs in the kitchen already. Lots to read above, but my biggest observation is you are searching for a sweet spot with ignition timing, but you have some things going on with the carb that tell me that needs...

These are pretty cool! I have one of the universal dash's for my forgotten B body project. They are in Ohio, and last I checked, were guaranteed for life.

I have personally had several oil filled coils leak. I came to like the e core type, but have also found those aren't compatible with certain efi setups. Also have to watch resistance if mixing with old school ignition systems. If it's a bone stock build, I would get whatever rock auto special...

At the risk of sounding arrogant, I'm going to make a very blunt statement. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but the literature posted above in my post, and on the BluePrint Engines website was written and comprised by a company that has produced 370,000 + engines, in 40 years, with many...

Here is our detailed installation guide that is on our website, and was just updated. section 6 is how we recommend setting timing. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2160/9839/files/BP_Installation_Guide_-_Single_Pages.pdf?v=1631108823 IF the engine was purchased as a complete dressed unit...

Initially I think the guys above suggesting bad battery cables or clamps are correct, but you need to define "everything dies" When you hit the key...does all power go away, and it's as if the battery isn't even in the car? No horn....no sniper power...no lights.. nothing Or... Is it...

there's a bunch of threads on interlock, but here are a few with pictures if its seatbelt interlock related. bypassing interlock system What is this? Green box under dash wiring???

If I recall, you can unplug the seatbelts, and remove the interlock button.."relay" under hood and thats all thats needed to bypass it. If you want to ALSO pull the blue box under the dash...you need to splice the yellow, and yellow tracer wire from the original wiring that ran to that little...

1978 dodge. That switch was not reproduced I could find.

would a universal switch like the below work with a mopar 2 speed wiper? I'm thinking no...because the Park position actually uses the low speed backwards...and it requires polarity to reverse? where this switch doesn't appear to do it? I have low and high working with this switch, but off...