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MORE great information here. I don't know much about the 73-76 DRUM brake cars except that they used large upper ball joints....the same UCAs as the disc cars. I didn't know that the lower ball joints were standardized but it makes sense, 1973 brought several steering and chassis changes for...

That is nice of you to suggest that. When I started the thread, I had a different title for it, one that was vague. I changed it to pertain specifically to this issue so it will be easy to find with the search feature. I don't know if this issue exists when changing to the 1972 and earlier...

They could have made the disc unit's steering arm bends the same offset as the drum setups had. They are obviously different but who knows why..... I just wondered about this a few times over the years but never had an understanding as to what specifically caused it. Now I do. My curious...

Just confirmed. Center to center on outer tie rod ends of disc: 48”. Drums: 46 3/8”. That is 1 5/8 further apart on disc cars.

Drum: Looks like about 6 3/4 inches from center of zero on the ball joint to center of the tie rod hole. Disc. Looks like the same number. It appears to me that the difference is in the bend. I’d need to measure the offset of the arm from its mounting point on the spindle.

Different lengths? That would change the overall steering ratio. I can go measure these and report back. I'd like to get two cars on the lift and measure the steering linkage center to center of drum versus disc.

Like many of you, I’ve owned a few A body cars with 4 wheel drum brakes. Many of us convert to front discs, many times using the popular 1973-76 A body 11” discs. Throughout the years, I’ve noticed that every time I’ve made this switch, the front end alignment changes a LOT. Going from drum to...

I would have NO problem using them. The small ball joints are plenty strong enough.

The shops that rebuild OEM steering boxes do VARY in quality. Firm Feel and Steer and Gear offer options to increase the steering feel and cut down on the overboosted sensation. Other vendors often just disassemble, clean and reassemble the units with no regard for addressing the loose...

I am often surprised to hear that guys haven't heard that the Borgeson unit can be bought and installed without cutting the column. Where have you been? It has been at least 10 years that the universal coupler has been available. Peter Bergman, a sponsor of this site, sells a complete kit with...

Yeah, there is a noticeable difference in the length.

Just about anyone that pulls their 7 1/4" axle to swap in something bigger seems to throw away the stock hardware. Put up a Want To Buy ad here. Someone may have some and not think anyone wants them.

Make sure you confirm that they will ship immediately. There have been reports online of people ordering parts back as late as September of last year and they are still waiting. If you can wait AND if they don't charge you UNTIL they ship, it may work out for you. I don't dispute their quality...

I always like the appearance of rear hung front calipers and front hung calipers on rear disc systems. Also, I prefer the 73-76 A style K member and sway bar design. The sway bar tucks up neater and in tighter. It weighs less due to it being shorter in each dimension while still being effective...

I don't "hate" them. They do what they can for the factory design. They are limited by the design constraints of the unit. Think of it this way....If you take a 1950s straight six and did every trick you could think of, (porting the head, extrude hone the intake and exhaust manifold, add EFI...

The Borgeson units are a new design. Keep in mind, when the Mopar power steering was first designed and released in the Late 50s, super easy steering was a huge selling point. Their design was aimed to capitalize on that. Cars didn’t have to handle well. Tires were tall and squishy, springs and...

I heard someone post that the Firm Feel rebuild was $600. Shipping your core to them could be another $100. That is less than a Borgeson but not by much. This really is a matter of “spend a little more and you’ll not regret it”.

OR........ Ignore both of them and use a Borgeson from BERGMAN Auto Craft. This isn't a shill....I have no stake in your decision. My experience is that every Mopar steering box is saddled with a design flaw that is impossible to eliminate entirely. That is the dead spot in the middle of the...

If you trust Rick Ehrenberg, the ratio is 15.7 to one.

I don't know. If it does, where would it show? Do you think it would result in a premature failure? If so, at which point? Early bushing wear? Cracks in the UCA somewhere? I've had neither. The car steers great, it tracks straight and is extremely stable at any speed. There is no irregular tire...

Yeah, thanks for that. I am well aware of it and have seen it numerous times. Some may have not so posting it may allow them to copy and paste it to their files for future use. 72Blu was right in that it IS a really old chart that does apply in most cases with most people but doesn't take into...

Yeah… they did offer the convenience of a packaged suspension and steering “unit” to use in older vehicles with straight axle stuff. I have a buddy that had a 56 F100 with the Volare setup. He didn’t drive fast around corners. The independent suspension, power steering, brakes and 4.5 bolt...

1973 brought in a bunch of steering and suspension changes for Mopars… not all of them were good. I read awhile back about the transverse torsion bar design for the FMJ body cars. The only advantage those offered for production was the room to place pre-catalytic converters right off of the...

The A body went to large sector in 1973, if I recall.

That explains the confusion....that later built cars had the old style mounts. I was thinking that, based on how some things get mandated January 1st, that logically the later builds should have had what they would all eventually get. (Shock type bumpers) The Superbirds had to be built before...

I have wondered about the shock type bumpers versus the standard bracket bumpers on 1974 models. I thought it was likely a change that took place partway through the model year. I assumed that the later builds would all have the shock type since all 1975-76 cars had them but I have seen/owned...

I thought that ALL the front frame rails were the same except for 1967 and later, they spaced them further apart?

See? I'm not the only one that likes to push these ideas!

I wish that I knew an alignment guy that liked to tinker in his free time. I estimated adding 1/4" just as a starting point. Something like this could be mocked up on a test chassis and measured and recorded. The tubular arms that are purported to add up to 3 degrees or more could be measured...

Oh, I have the money. It is not about that in the least. I started with a junkyard mindset and it stuck with me. I worked construction for years and was a damned good framer. I was the guy that didn't mind using up the scraps, the imperfect wood, the leftovers. It was a challenge to make it work...