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You can also consider Prothane 4-801-BL for 7/8" applications. They are made out of polyurethane, firmer and more durable than plain Chinese rubber. Summit has 1" also. For Moog, confirm the quantity you get. It seems like some listings aren't clear on that.

I wouldn't change the shackle orientation. If ever needed, I believe it's possible to slide the shackle out without removing the frame mounted hanger. Front hanger nut is on the inside also. Frame gets in the way with the nut facing out. I also recall seeing SS spring numbers stamped on the...

I tried Mopar stick drag shocks but they were still too soft for my auto combo. The harder a car leaves, the stiffer the shocks should be to control separation & wheel-hop, even with SS springs. I ended up going to Rancho myself. Ranchos use to be 3 or 5 way. Now they are 9-way. I don't have the...

Wearing on the inside. Maybe a good analogy would be - Like a piston in a cylinder bore, as they wear, clearances open up and the piston can actually "rock" a little more than it should. I suppose the shaft could get tweaked as well.

Have you checked Energy Suspension @ Summit Racing? Multi-piece, firmer and may be less expensive.

The plates are for the front spring mounting location. I've added about 3/4" spacers with longer Grade 8 bolts & all-steel lock nuts to the rear mount to adjust the angle of the rear hanger. Seems like it would cause more stress due to leverage but I never had an issue. You can always weld any...

Sagging is the biggest issue with most springs and especially with SS springs. There is the process of re-arcing the springs if you can find someone who knows how to do it. (Re-arcing all of them instead of just one or just adding one.) As for front bushings, if aluminum is too harsh, poly is a...

If you are talking about "oval" bushings like F-bodies have, I doubt it would be worth the effort. That was part of Chryslers effort to soften the ride. Racers preferred stiffer bushings or aluminum inserts. I believfe OEM F-body front bushings had 2 holes in them that racers filled with a bolt...

Try stiff shocks to stop the wheel hop. Not sure if anything short of a drag racing performance or truck shock like Rancho will be enough.

If the engines weigh about the same, it shouldn't change the weight distribution much, if any, either. But the overall weight and distribution will start changing if you start upgrading the rest of the car to be more compatible with the V-8 - brakes, 904-727, bigger radiator, etc. Check the rest...

The early SS shocks also "valved" differently. The best I can figure is the rears are "basically" stiffer, as seen by the heavier duty applications - big Imperial car and truck shocks, but it is more complicated than that. The Direct Connection "auto" version is definitely softer than the...

It's likely you'll need to replace the front & shackle bushings, unless the springs come with them. Also make sure that the OEM eye bolt diameter matches up with the front bushings. Checking the pinion angle before & after couldn't hurt either.

They would still interchange, but didn't the piston diameter get a little bigger around 1976? I read that somewhere but forgot where.

I made some extra solid steel 3/4" spacers that I use on my car. You'd need longer Grade 8 bolts.

The "on-center" one is the only style I've seen. They're also made in polyurathane, unless you're looking for an accurate restoration.

Yes, 1975 & 1976 Dart Sports both have the shock absorber bumper brackets. 1974 should also interchange but the "bumper guards", or whatever they are called, were "fatter" in '74. (As long as it's not a Swinger.)

Put stiffer shocks on it. Single adjustable Rancho shocks are good. I forgot the part # on my Dart Sport and car isn't here to check. You'll need to check your estimated compressed and extended lengths and look at Rancho's spec sheets for shocks with mounting ends that will fit. The harder the...

I think you can use them on either side.

AR Engineering. I must have added the link while you were typing because I posted before putting it in.:BangHead:

They make spacers, or you can make your own. I don't know what the limit would be because of the possible "leverage" action on the studs. But I'd reinforce the opposite side as well. As for clearance, remember that acceleration, bumps, turns, etc. will all have a bearing on needed clearances...

Don't know about the specific u-joint size/application, but there are 2 different splined yokes for an 8 3/4, depending on the pinion - course & fine spline. Course spline are usually aftermarket pinions. I don't think 8.25 and 8.75 yokes interchange. But the strongest yokes are billet steel...

Old Mopar Performance drag shocks. Mopar Performance Drag Racing Rear Shock Absorber They had a version for automatics and another for stick applications, but I don't know which these are. However, even the stiffer stick application version was marginal for use with current high stall...

72bluNblu explained the reasoning to have the cup facing away from the bushing: "The cupped washer faces the direction it’s labeled. The goal isn’t to cup the bushing, it’s to have a curved surface for the strut rod to pivot on to reduce binding. If the cup faced the bushing the bushing would...

If it has OEM front discs, it should be big bolt pattern. I never heard of small bolt pattern discs starting in 1973.

Yea, before driving any more and risking more damage and getting stuck somewhere, I'd pull the driveshaft and start checking the u-joints by hand. Checking the yoke & trans slip-spline fit/play wouldn't hurt while your at it. But I'm going with the u-joints also. Check the u-joint c-clips & make...

With only occasional street use, consider poly or even aluminum spring eye bushings for the front as well. Soft rubber is wasted motion & energy and most locations benefit from the firmness. Transmission mounts, however, should not be solid/aluminum, but good with poly also.

Not my strong point either, but..... Steering components used have to be for the year K-member being used. Check if there is a different pitman arm needed depending on power or manual steering. Upper ball joints are different between '72 & '73 so I believe you'll need '73+ upper control arms...

The "allowed" amount comes from class racing rules, like NHRA Stock & Super Stock. It limits the amount of difference from OEM specs as well as difference from side-to-side. Some racers staggered the wheelbase from side-to-side to gain more rollout, thus giving faster ETs. Made it difficult for...

I would have recommended correctly poly front & back or aluminum front/poly back bushings. OEM bushings are cheap, soft rubber that doesn't hold up as well in performance use and takes away from the firmer suspension you trying to get with the SS springs.

It's been many years since I put the Ranchos on my Dart. It was a tight fit butI don't recall having any issues. Seems like that 1/16" would cause a problem because of how hard the bushings are. Not sure when I'll be up at where my Dart is stored at to do some checking, including part #'s.