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Along with all the advice given to check and or correct the wheel hop issues which I thank you all for I’m hearing loud and clear if the mopar is wheel hoping something is not correct.

I’m using the factory big block cast iron bell housing. Shouldn’t that be adequate with an approx 450 horse engine? I’m not actively racing the car. It’s more of a street sometimes strip car.

Yellow rose just an expression. I should rephrase that as dumping the clutch and it grabbing solid and assuming the tires aren’t drag radials but street tires my experience has been tire spin but not damage to drive train at least with a healthy 8 3/4.

So re-adjust the clutch linkage so that the clutch grabs farther down? Is the thinking if there is more travel to engage and release the clutch then it’s easier to let it out without having it grab too harshly? My only concern is that in my previous cars if things were set up correct there...

Good idea Rusty

The clutch grabs about an inch from the top but can be adjusted to engage farther down not an issue. I think the first thing I should do is get the pinion angle correct. I don’t know if it is in between 5-7%. Then yes the front spring eye perch’s as well as the back of the springs are...

Thanks Rmoore I hope the issue is that simple. How do you change/adjust pinion angle and how do I properly measure it?

Well I thought better throttle response less spinning weight. Maybe overkill.

It seems this clutch wheel hop issue has been a problem for a long time and I just though that the dart clutch being trashed was the reason.

Yes the car has the small factory non adjustable pinion snubber on it and there are front clamps on both leaves that I think are factory. My other car my Barracuda has the same engine a 383, same leave springs and the basic factory clutch setup and doesn’t wheel hop at all? Could it all be...

So I brought the dart to a reputable restoration shop near me in CT to have some work done on my 67 Dart. I was trying to do most of not all the work on the car by myself and was learning quite a bit and accomplishing a lot. The problem is that I’m in the process of building a 3 car garage...

So diaphragm clutch is a newer style clutch as opposed to the older oem 3 finger type?

My clutch adjustment rod is now 7 1/2” from eye loop to the end of adjustment rod. I think that is the longest you can buy?

From what I can remember. I’m not positive that I’m 100% accurate is was a long time ago. I think the throw out bearing wasn’t working correctly with the clutch fork to fully engage and disengage. Carl

I have been thinking about my situation with my pedal not coming all the way back up even though my clutch is relatively new and I’m all the way at the end of my clutch adjustment rod. I’m not sure what clutch is in my car because I didn’t order and install it. Maybe the fix isn’t that I need...

I purchased the modified z bar I believe from TTI or Mancini not sure can’t remember.

P.S. If a longer clutch adjustment rod would help me where can I get one?

So I noticed after putting my car back together and installing the modified z bar in my car that I’m all the way out on the clutch adjustment rod in order to get the pedal to come all the way back up to the top. I had to use the modified z bar because I’m running TTI headers in my 67 383 4...

Wow talk about a person that has no integrity and honor. Based on what you have been through Jamie should be ashamed of himself. It’s people like him that make everyone reluctant to shell out big money for new equipment. So sorry for your troubles and loss matthon. Six grand is a huge chunk...

It appears based on the website link you can order a mopar 855 5 speed right now through this website? If that is the case why is there still such a waiting list through Passon Performance?

Thank you for the advice on a new clutch setup. Carl

Thank you to everyone that responded. This site is an invaluable resource. Carl

Thanks everyone for chiming in. Did this only come on certain year 4 speed pedal setups? Maybe the rebuilt manual pedal assembly I bought was from a later a body like 71 or 72. Would my 67 dart 4 speed originally have this part on it? I'm wondering if my dart never had a provision for this? I...

I've been doing some research on line and can't find the answers I'm looking for. I believe I have a centerforce diaphragm clutch in my BB 4 speed dart and the clutch pedal is still a bear to push and hold down. I'm a pretty healthy strong guy but after driving in stop and go traffic it takes...

Im in the process of trying to figure out how all the components work on my 4 speed a body pedal assembly. In playing with another rebuilt pedal assembly I bought off this site I broke off the plastic stop tab on the end of this switch. I have enclosed some pics of it. It looks like the...

Thanks everyone for the info. I got it now.

Thanks 67Dart273 So basically someone removed it. What is on the car now than is an automatic starter relay without the push on tab for the clutch safety switch to hook up to? I guess I could just leave it as is instead of rewiring the connection from the clutch pedal assembly to a new 4...

Here is a question that is perplexing me. I'm wondering if a 1967 4 speed barracuda would of came from the factory with a neutral safety switch? I'm the second owner of my car so I don't know what has been changed. After looking at my starter relay on the fender in the engine bay and tracing...

I tell you that I had a problem with my car that was driving me crazy a couple of years ago. One tell tale sign was that I couldn't get the car into reverse without shutting the car off and putting it into reverse than starting up the car again. Assuming that you have enough travel on the...

Orangetwist I don't now if this would be helpful but I had some major problems with my 4 speed tranny last year and it was all due to something very simple. I would have to actually shut my car off to get it to go into reverse smoothly or it would grind very bad. The reason being the pilot...