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If everything was 100% efficient, 1 horsepower = 745.7 watts = 55.2 amps at 13.5 volts. Also 30 Amps at 13.5 volts = 405 watts. Your 12 fluorescence lamps (assuming 60 watts each) draw a total of about 6.5 amps at 110 volts. Just sayin', 'cause I'm bored and can't sleep. :toothy7:

Yeah, I tried but it's very difficult to find an exact fit. Thank you! :mrgreen: My Grand Cherokee's fan runs on hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. The pressure (and therefore fan speed) are regulated by the engine computer via solenoid! Different.

Nuker, you and I have the same philosophy... build it for 100k miles, drive anywhere at any time with anvil-like reliability. We just go about it with different methods. On my build, I'm using Spal dual electric fans with a fan controller set up for 2-speed operation to minimize amperage draw...

Where do you get 50 or 60 amps from? 25 or 30 amps is more realistic. Also where does it say you need 8,000 CFM? If your radiator is properly sized for the engine and it's HP level you shouldn't need that much air. Of course there are variables such as rate of coolant flow and ambient temp...

Mass and power relationship may be linear but many other factors are not. An electric fan spins at a constant speed independent of engine RPM whereas a mechanical fan has to turn X revolutions per RPM. The mass of the fan, clutch, belt and pulley have to be accelerated with the engine which is...

Ok, here's mine. Griffin radiator - $280 Spal Dual 11's - $235 Aluminum stock/hardware - $40 I had to split the fans and cut a section out to bring them closer together. Fabbed upper and lower fan brackets as well as mounting brackets to use the rubber bushings. Upper fan bracket "clips on"...

Well... were you able to make this swap? I'm curious since I'd like to do the same thing on my Dart. I'm mainly interested in how the M-Body heater/AC box fits under the dash and if there's interference with the wipers, if the fresh air intake lines up, etc. Any help would be much appreciated...