Search results for query: *

You do know that those studs go into water territory in the heads, right? That's why those particular holes use studs instead of bolts. To remove them, if you're still so inclined, :) Put 2 nuts on the stud, tighten the outside one TIGHT against the inner one, then use the inner one to...

Try moving the engine a little. Loosen off both frame mount bolts and try wedging the motor away to give you that 1/4" clearance.

I'm glad to hear Harold came through for you. I have been thinking long and hard about ordering a set for my 66 Val 360. Quick question - do you need to weld the lower exhaust flanges on yourself, or are you just using a reducer and going straight to the exhaust pipes? Either way, that should...

Jeff, I don't know if you'll find a set of block hugger type headers that will fit your engine / chasis combo. The collectors on the block huggers dump almost directly on top of your steering box, so there's no room to attach your exhaust head pipes. Hope this helps.

snake, do you have any pictures of the installation? What year/model vehicle was the donor for your manifolds. I would like to use them on my 66 / 360 combo, but I still haven't seen a pair actually installed on an early A body.

I still run the original 273 manifolds with a dual exhaust. What exactly do you need to see, since my Vart is all apart on the rotisserie. If it's in-car pics you need, I can't help right now. Questions I might be able to answer. :)

It's nice to see you post again 321Scamp. Good work.

If they are truck manifolds, center dumps, then they won't fit very well in an A body. The outlets will point at everything you need to get around to complete your exhaust plumbing.

abodyhotrod, do you have any photos of your installation that you can post here? This is a topic that keeps cropping up every couple of months, and I'm sure a few photos would greatly help some folks. Thanks.

That passenger side pipe is right on the gas tank, or at least it looks that way in the picture.

Tony, is this for an early or post-67 A body. It MIGHT fit a 67 or later, but I don't think it will fit in a pre-67. It looks like the outlet will be pointed right at the steering shaft and box.

I've read that it's almost impossible to get tham from Harold, the original fabricator, but I believe Layson's sells them now under another name. There was a thread on here about them a few months ago, so maybe do a search.

Alkymopar is right - BBQ paint.

Yeah, they are definitely "FUN" to install on any Mopar, especially an A body. I think I even invented a few new cuss words installing them over the past 35 years. :)

middleagecrisis, I realize the picture is only an illistration, and no, I haven't personally tried them. However, there was a thread, here on FABO I believe, a few weeks ago about someone who had installed a set on a SB engine for an EARLY A-body and they ran right into just about everything in...

I could be wrong, but it looks like those Hedman's will dump directly onto the K Member. They may also have interference problems with the steering box unless they're cut and modified.

Get on that MIG and start practicing. They are easy to learn, but they can be very frustrating to use until you figure out the temp setting, wire speed especially, and just generally what to expect under different welding circumstances. Practice, practice, practice. Ho Hum! :)

Have a look at this thread guys. I don't think anyone has actually managed to run a set in an A Body yet... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=5634

Glad to hear it's working the way you wanted it to. :)

What heads, cam, and valve springs are you running on your combo? Len, I'm with you. I'm way too old to live that close to a sudden sharp pain in the area of my wallet pocket. :)

If memory serves me correctly, those 596 heads have the same specs as the older 915 "J" heads, except they have the air injection holes in them near the spark plug holes. Most, if not all, came with the 1.88 valves.

smythge, you can't beat that $50.00 price tag! The only job of the manifolds or headers is to let the exhaust gases get out of the engine, and if you can do it for 50 bucks, that's great. I bet the heads won't even know how much the exhaust system cost. :) Keep us updated on how things are...

I'm drooling already, although I'll probably never let that much money escape from my wallet to buy them. I"m just too fiscally frugal (CHEAP) I guess. :)

It's awesome when you can get a great fabrication / welder person like that to pitch in and help. If you don't tell you haven't done it all yourself, then I won't tell. :)

If your current exhaust system is in good sgape, keep it. I don't think you'll see any really appreciable HP gains for the dollars spent. Once this system goes, then put on the 2 1/2" pipes.

smythge, it's looking good! You've really done some nice work there, and you should be an expert exhaust pipe welder before it's all done. Thanks for the photos, and keep them coming. :thumblef:

Yup, that 440 takes up a lot of room in the narrow 65 engine bay. I have a 360 in my 66 and I'm still running the stock 273 exhaust manifolds, due largely to the absence of a good free-flowing manifold that will fit, or a set of tublular headers that won't cost me more than my car did. Have you...

smythge: I've been coming back to this thread every day and looking at the way you're going with those pipes, and I have to agree with Ace on this one. It looks like you may be creating more problems that you're trying to solve. However, if you do the same thing with the same pipes, only run it...

That's kind of what I suspected when I mentioned the "exhaust log" idea. Keep us posted with details and photos.

smythge, that's an interesting way of getting the exhaust out, and it should work just fine. What are you using on the engine - headers, production style exhaust manifolds, or are you just making up an exhaust log with the exit to the front? Keep us posted on how it goes and keep a photo record...