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There are some '66 transmissions. They are not all that common, and my own '66 273, 4-speed 4-barrel, Dart didn't come with one. They must have burned their inventory of them up in /6 cars in '67, because according to my parts manual, it doesn't exist in '68. I've reubilt a hundred A833s, and...

This will show you what Hurst handle replaced the Inland in '66/'67/'early '68. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=101686

" but the two aluminum ones I have only had engine overspray on 'em when I got em. " Exactly. Early cast bells were fully painted the color of the engine.

I am aware of these transmissions. We discussed them at length in an old thread. Someone on this site has a '66 Dart GT with one. Based on transmission part numbers, my opinion of them differs from Brewers.

All 833 4-speeds have the same yoke diameter/spline as 727. The yokes have the small U-joint...that is all.

'68 A833 does NOT use the small 904 yoke. It uses the small 904 yoke U-joint. ALL A-833 4-SPEEDS USE THE SAME YOKE DIAMETER/SPLINE AS THE 727.

He may be trying to figure out if you have early or late synchronizer assemblies. '70 340 would be the cut off. If your car was an early build it would have the early synchros...if it was later it would have the later synchros.

My last foray before I sold my motor to a restoration guy. This is a pro-stock cluster gear I smoked a couple years ago, from an 18-spline full race 4-speed that was LIGHTYEARS stronger than a 23-spline. This was done with a T/A 340. 12.1 comp. 4.56 gears and slicks. This wasn't even a violent...

"I probably won't completely murder the car on launches, but I certainly won't be just rolling off the line (where's the fun in that =P)." When you race a 4-speed, you do whatever the car likes, and if that is rolling off the line... then you roll off the line. Behind slicks and boost, a...

An A833 23 spline 4-speed will be fine behind 400 hp.

Yes, it is the same stick. It is NOT removeable. Same as Matthons. My guess is that Hurst sold them until about '75 or so. Then Mr. Gasket sold them for a couple years after that. This is pure speculation, but I am guessing there was little to no market for A-body Hurst Competition plus...

I remember well.... people took a torch and bent the rods to fit. I've done it several times myself. I took a length of coat hanger, bent that while the shifter mech was mounted and then took it to a bench and bent the shifter rods to match.

Here is a correct A-body specific shifter (circa 1967). And these are the correct A-body specific rods, (circa early '80s). This is the best combination of correct A-body specific parts to replace the Inland I have found. I'd show the console shifter as well, but it is in my car. The shift...

The original shift knob is the plain white one. In the pic, the original knob is the yellowish one. Next to it is a newer white Hurst repop. You can see a molding ring around the original that isn't there in the new one...otherwise they are identical.

Since we are using this thread for reference, I also want to add that the shift handle on the shifter that is pictured by the original poster is not only the generic competition plus, it is also the identical shift handle for the generic Mastershift 3-speed shifter. But wait there's more. It...

I don't like 3.09s. I like OD, even less. I sold every NON-OD 3.09 gearset I had to a guy who raced an AAR in F.A.S.T class. He had an engine that would spin high enough to use them. He claimed it reduced wheel hop off the line, but my 340 and 4.56 gears would spin out of the powerband too...

That is a GENERIC Hurst Competition plus. A one size fits all deal that was sold in speed shops. it is not A-body specific, but was New Process specific. Probably the reason that handle looks like a GM unit to you is that there was an old Corvette handle that was nearly identical but shorter.

THIS is the correct A-BODY, non-console, hurst aftermarket replacement for the inland in '66/'67/early '68. I have mine with all the original paperwork including application, instructions, and ALL part numbers. Husrt did NOT have a removeable handle for '66 and '67. This was true with the GTO as...

That is NOT a Mopar shifter.

The problem appears to be pretty simple. It looks like you have a Supershifter 2 shifter. Does this shifter have the reverse lockout? Then it might be a later one. It is not a Mopar shifter. Also that bracket looks to be wrong. It shouldn't be that thick. Supershifter 2 and the Street...

Make sure the levers that bolt to the shifting forks on the transmissions sidecover are correct A-body. If they are not it will give you "miles" of throw. It will also effect the operation of the rods as they may be moving further than intended. They may bind or rub, or make contact some other way.

The 23 spline is a very strong unit, but anything over 500 hp or with slicks and I'd go straight to an 18 spline. Once Mopar Muscle was down the road at the local hotrod shop doing a feature on a Hemi Dart they built. Everyone got into the swing of things, and they pulled out a '71 440 'cuda...

Is the crank taken out of the 340, or still in the shortblock? If it is out...walk away. That is alot of money for pieces.

A 23 spline won't handle 700 hp. an 18-spline might for a little while. Certainly not with sticky tires. Time for a Jerico.

That shifter is not for a Mopar...it is a Chevy shifter.

He didn't say he was going to do anything on the street. I said that is where I did it. In my defense, it was a different time... One of our Sheriffs rolled a '55 on it's side on mainstreet when he was a kid.

Well "Pete...GTO guy" WROTE THE BOOK ON HURST SHIFTERS, literally, and is the BEST. He helped me identify Dick Landys shifter from his SS/A Hemi Dart. You yourself compared your services to Hursts. You won't be a A-body member in good standing for long if you tell people you are rebuilding their...

Nice clean up, but I don't think I'd call your service "rebuilding". There is a reason why Hurst charges what they charge. They REBUILD the shifter. I don't want to be a wet blanket, but you are not rebuilding anything unless you are replacing the worn parts. I need a shifter rebuilt...

Those are the standard Hurst Supershifter and Street Supershifter rods. They are pretty stout