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I agree the angle shouldn't matter. What did you find?

I got replacement adjuster screws and lock nuts from Summit Racing for my 65 Dart. But I ran into a problem when I put the stock valve covers on and the adjuster screws hit the baffle inside the valve cover. Thicker valve cover gaskets solved the problem for me, but you could also drill holes...

Might be cheaper to find a set of 273 heads that still have the rockers attached...

There is nothing wrong with the stock 273 adjustable rockers and they should bolt onto your 318 heads. You are correct about the additional chamber volume lowering your compression. I recommend you find a way to CC the chambers. Every 273 head I ever cc'ed had significantly more chamber...

Sounds like an exhaust leak to me.

Was the engine warm when you did the test? Also, did you hold the throttle wide open? Did you crank it enough to build pressure (at least three to four revs)? I'm no expert, but I think your next step is to squirt some oil into the spark plug hole and see if the compression increases. If it...

Anyone have an opinion on an edelbrock sp2p. Narrow runners might be well suited to the smaller 273. Thoughts? EDIT: This thread has some opinions on it. 273/318 Edelbrock SP2P Intake Manifold

They may have been spec'ed for 10.5 to 1, but you rarely get that in practice. Deck height is usually higher than spec. Chamber volume greater than spec. Head gasket thickness and diameter greater than spec, etc. I used domed pistons from Kanter. I did cleanup passes on the decks and heads...

Is there a thermostat in the engine? Maybe it was running too cold before.

Ditto on the pistons. In my experience, even using re-pop domed pistons, static CR is never what was advertised due to variations in deck height, piston height, dome volume, head gasket thickness and diameter and chamber volume. All of these measurements tend to deviate from spec in the...

Depends on the year of the crankshaft and transmission. 68 and later torque converters have a larger snout and require a larger register bore than the 67 and earlier crankshafts. Since the cars are 64 and 65 model year, you should be fine as long as the engines and transmissions are original.

I borrowed a carburetor from a buddy with a 65 Dart 273. Same symptoms. Then I swapped out my HEI distributor for the old Mopar orange box setup that came with car. Instant success! I set the base timing down to 15 degrees advance and it idles nice.

That's a good tip on not disconnecting the PCV. I knew better, just didn't think it through. When I installed the distributor to begin with I aimed the rotor at #1 while at TDC, just like everyone is suggesting. Since then I've re-oriented the drive gear a couple teeth to get more advance...

My cam is advanced 4 degrees of crank rotation, which would be 2 degrees at the cam. Is yours 2 degrees at the crank or at the cam?

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions. I think, based on what I'm hearing and also reading elsewhere, that the cam timing is not a problem. Many people believe that advancing the cam 4 degrees is a good idea if the goal is good low end torque. I think I will leave that alone for now...

I'm running the eBay distributor that is also sold under the Pro Comp brand name. Not MSD. The ignition worked well before I removed it from the car. I can't say what the all-in timing was before I took it apart. By "timing light trigger problems" do you mean that the timing is...

I have convinced myself that the balancer and the timing tab are correct to within 1 degree. The timing set is Cloyes True Roller. It has the symbols you've described and if I recall correctly it was installed so the circle marks were aligned when #1 was at TDC. But I guess those marks...

I've confirmed that the mark on the balancer is correct within 1 degree as I also did when I assembled the motor. I was using degree tape on the balancer so I could measure the full ignition timing. When we turned the distributor to where it would finally start, the all in timing measured...

I used a degree wheel and a piston stop in the #1 spark plug hole. The timing mark on the balancer is within 1 degree of actual TDC, but my cam timing measurements were based on the degree wheel which was correctly set at TDC. My ignition timing numbers are with both vacuum and centrifugal...

I recently fired my 273 for the first time. The engine is difficult to start but starts best with the distributor set at approximately 60 degrees advance all in. Once running above idle speed, I can time it back to around 35-40 all in and it will keep running. But when it quits it's hard to...

I spent a lot of time trying to measure compression height and dome volume of various hipo 273 pistons. Unfortunately, I didn't have a factory piston to measure. But I did compare Egge, Kantor (Rebuilder's Choice) and some TRW forged pistons that are no longer made...

Static CR is the ratio between the total volume and the chamber volume. It would be accurate if the intake valve closed at bottom dead center. But in reality, the intake valve closes sometime after bottom dead center. Since the cylinder doesn't actually begin building pressure until the...

This thread is making me nervous. I built my 273 at 8.5:1 dynamic but have not fired it yet. Pump premium is only 91 octane here in California. Luckily the head gasket is only .029 so I have an easy fix if I went too far.

I installed those adjusters on my 65 and they hit the baffle on the inside of the valve cover. I had a 67 valve cover on the drivers side and that side didn't hit. I ended up drilling holes in the baffle of the 65 valve cover. On my new engine I went with shorter pushrods from Comp Cams and...

The thread pitch of the adjuster screws is 24 threads per inch. The pushrods I'm using are approximately 1/8" shorter. Possibly a bit less than 1/8", but lets just say 1/8" shorter, worst case. At 24 tpi, that's 3 turns on the adjuster screw. With the stock pushrods and adjuster screws I...

Are you commenting on my valves or ToolManMike's?

If that's the overall length then it would be surprising that you got them to work. If that's the effective length, then they're pretty close to the shorter comp cams rods I'm using. I know you milled more off your heads than I did which would make those push rods a better fit for you with the...

Thanks Toolman. What length push rods did you end up using?

I had hardened seats installed in the heads. I don't think they're too deep. I cc'ed all the chambers earlier in this thread. They're not too far out of line from what others are seeing. Sunken seats might explain having to back the stock adjusters out so far with the stock push rods, but it...

My valve adjusting screws were backed all the way out, and the tops of the cups were coming very close to the bottom of the rockers. So I decided to try a shorter set of pushrods. I ordered a set of Comp Cams 782116 Hi-Energy Pushrods. They measure approximately 1/8" shorter than the...