Search results for query: *

I had no trouble going the full 360. No roof, but still a windshield frame. Maybe my rotisserie is taller. It was a Craigslist purchase and there was no identifying information on it. But it's plenty stout.

Here's what my convertible looked like once I got it balanced. You can see that I replaced the T-brackets with a straight pieces of square tube to get the car higher and the axis of the rotisserie lower.

Your rotisserie is just like mine. Looks like you are on the highest setting possible using the T bracket. Does that car have a roof?

I had a hard time getting my 65 convertible to balance because I couldn't get it high enough. I ended up replacing the T shaped pieces with straight lengths of square tube. This put the pivot point at the same level as the bumper brackets which worked pretty well. Obviously a hard top will be...

They did all the aluminum on my 65 Dart GT. Not sure what their length limit is, but long pieces included the finder trim, grill, candy canes, hood trim, and the trunk trim between the tail lights. I didn't take any closeups of the trim, but I can tell you that the quality of the polish is...

Custom Metal Refinishing did my anodizing. They are in Gardena, CA. Home They stripped it for me first. Then I straightened and polished it myself. Then they did the anodizing.

Body filler is porous and will absorb moisture. If that happens, the epoxy will protect the steel underneath. That's why some automakers including Toyota require epoxy under filler to maintain warranty coverage, or so I've heard. It's also a good idea to make sure any metal patches are welded...

Ditto on the SPI recommendation. Their epoxy is awesome to work with. It spays nice and sands nice. I used red oxide epoxy as a base coat, did body work on top, and sealed the filler with more epoxy. Red Oxide is what the factory used although nobody will see it. On top of the red epoxy I...

The starting grit depends on what you're taking out. If you're fixing dents you might start with 220. It's like body work but without the filler. You have to get the piece as flat as possible using a small hammer and punch. I like to use a 1/4 inch drive socket extension as the punch because...

I used GCAR. Took awhile, but great work. He did the bezels, not the gauge faces. I painted the metal frame.

I looked long and hard for a modern paint code that was a good match for the original color. I finally found a color on 1999-2000 Lincolns. The code is BH and it's a dead ringer for the factory AA-1 Medium Gold Poly. But since it's a modern code, it's easier to match.

Here's a picture. The car is mostly finished, so I'm not really needing any parts. The 273 block would be for another project.

Let me know if that parts car has a 273 V8. I might be interested in the engine block. Layson's sells new candy canes. They're pricey, but it's a pretty important part of the looks of the car. We have the same car. The combination of gold with the white pearl interior gets a lot of compliments.

You could put an eye out with that thing...

If the tach and sway bar are factory, you probably have a Formula S which is more rare than a Commando car. If you have a fender tag, you should decode it to find out what you have. 1965 Mopar Fendertag codes

Could you find a point at the bottom of the opposite jamb and measure diagonally? I would think both sides would have the same diagonal measurement from the top of the jamb to the bottom of the jamb on the opposite side of the car.

I got a fiberglass hood insulation pad from REM for my 65 Dart. First, the instructions say to mount it "with skin side toward the hood". But the instructions are generic and not specific to my car or even to Mopar. Anyone tried mounting one of these things the other way? Thoughts or...

I can't think of any reason for the observed behavior that you can't move the strike straight out. I would fully loosen the screws or even fully remove them to make sure the backing plate with the threaded holes is free to move whereever it needs to. Keep in mind that in addition to in & out...

The cars weren't completely submerged, so those parts would be bare. The assembly line dipped down into the vat and back out as the car moved forward. So the primer line is higher on the front and back of the car and lower in the middle. Really thorough restorations attempt to replicate this...

The entire body went down into a vat of primer, and the boxed in areas have holes to allow the paint in and back out. So they should all be painted inside. http://www.valiant.org/valiant/sinclair/sinclair-11.jpg

The dipper I talked to out here in CA only dipped. When I asked him about all the boxed in areas and pinch welds that I wouldn't be able to paint, he didn't have an answer. So I went with media blasting. That's great that the dippers in your area can protect all the metal afterwards but it...

I just discovered that Classic Industries now has 1965 Dart Candy Canes. At 469.99 a pair they are more expensive than Layson's, but if you get them during a 30% off sale they would only be 329. "Only" Not sure when that changed, but when I got mine, Layson's was the only source...

If the cross member was separated from the floor, I could wrap some ratchet straps around it and squeeze it so it flexes down the length of the hump. That might make it narrow enough to come in through the back window. I need to take the glass out anyways. Anyone ever tried it that way?

I wonder if I could bring it up through the bottom given that I will have the crossmember out of the car?

Is it possible to replace the entire floor of a 65 Barracuda in one piece? If so, how does it go in, through the side door/qtr window, or through the back window? The car also needs a new cross member because somebody cut the cross member for some unknown reason. I have a solid floor in a...

I think the theory is that body filler is porous and can absorb water. The epoxy layer protects the bare metal if moisture gets below the paint and into the filler. I used SPI Epoxy primer. I loved it. I've read the Dupont epoxy will plug your sand paper. But you could block sand the...

The bolts that hold hinges to the body allow you to adjust the door up and down, and front to back. They are accessed from behind the kick panels. The bolts that hold the hinges to the door allow you to adjust the front of the door in and out. You can get to them by removing the rear splash...

White would look like a bar code. I'm diggin the gold.

SPI sells primer and clear but they don't sell base coat (color). Therefore, everyone using their primer is spraying something else on top of it. If this were a problem they wouldn't sell much primer. You generally don't spray color right on top of epoxy. Usually you have some primer...