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the b-body one is a bit taller (inch or so) and is probably the issue.

It could be out of a b-body they are taller. Are there any numbers on the radiator to ID it.. it should be on the top tank.

with air, just follow what RRR said. It pulls vac from the intake manifold to the selector switch in dash.

a/c or non a/c?

It looks correct to me...

Dave is right depending on the amount of cores 3-350 for 2 core add around 100 for each additional with bubble top radiator. I just had done for my BB A-body about a year ago I think it was around 425. parts and labor to re-core.

If both are left side. Belt is going to depend on pulleys etc, but should be easy to get once you know the length. Goodyear 60659 Radiator Hose Goodyear 60662 Radiator Hose

68 the part number is 2898033 should be a 22" 3 core. Try glen ray http://www.restorationradiators.com/proddetail.asp?prod=22RADBB it is the same radiator for big block and hemi a-body.

other than the core number there is nothing really discernible with the radiator between having a/c or not, extra hoses etc. The tubes and fins maybe a different gap or space to help compensate the condenser in front of the radiator while in the car. In your case a non A/C car uses a 19" instead...

From the 1972 parts manual, lists both 19 and 22" options. Fender tag, if you have it, should specify core size. If a/c car I only see 22" option though and I would go with a 22" anyway. V,L Val or dart. '72 a-body 198/225 19" with auto trans - 3574648 '72 A-body 22" /6 engine - 225 - w/a/c...

you can stake open the vacuum actuator for the heat control (heater control valve). Or just apply vacuum directly to it from the engine. I don't remember if it is inside the dash or in the engine compartment, follow the heater hoses into the firewall. The blower motor should be wired and works...

it could be for a later, different, model? I looked it over I cant say for sure but haven't done one newer then 70.

Red, wouldn't he actually just need the metal part of the gauge cluster frame for a 68? The wiper switch alignment slot is slightly different from what I recall but will work, All else should work fine?

heater box 67 and 68 are different also the defrost/floor cable is routed in reverse.

if you didn't say Plymouth then perhaps you assumed too much from someone who probably wasn't even born when these cars were out. just saying.

I put a B-body 22" 3 core BB rad in a 67 SB A-body. I took it the local rad shop to have cleaned, inspected and move the bottom hose outlet and change the diameter which was different. It cost less than $50 to have done.

with a new post. if replying to a post and wanting to add photo hit the quote key. . Select the paper clip icon in the menu. That will bring up a sub-menu to choose a file. Navigate to where the picture you want to post is stored. Then choose photo(s). Select upload after it/they...

I put a big block 22" 3 core B-body radiator in my 67 cuda coupe. it was not an exact fit seems the B-body was deeper and required a little manipulating of the lower skirt on the core support. I am not sure the opening of the core support will allow full face cooling for a 26" radiator. I just...

It does lose some of the integrity that the ring gives to support the heater box. but with the firewall pad it stays snug and does not move around. I can grab it with force and move it. Currently, I am looking for a piece of non a/c firewall to weld in behind it. I just have problems parting...

the non a/c firewall retaining ring is just about the same diameter maybe a touch bigger as the a/c hole diameter. this is a non a/c box in an A/C hole.

A/C drain hole is much much smaller. that was an added feature from a previous owner - not factory.

yeah Brother, it is a double pulley system, but you can change the alt pulley w/o changing the alt. lemme know!

I took mine out separately, no reason you couldn't put them back the same way. hella easier to maneuver the box around in tight quarters.

Steve, I have another box from my car original owner decided to "add" a/c to it although it didn't come with it. all factory pieces and unfortunately the not so unsightly holes in my firewall. if you need some pieces let me know I have almost the whole assy from compressor to vents...

I recall my 440 having the same thing I studded and sealed the end bolts, which made it easier to line up the fender well headers anyhow. I don't think it is a real corrosion issue.

what does your current car have in it? is it just a large round hole (about 6" dia) in the firewall or a center hole (3")with 4 small holes surrounding it?

Mine is a 67 and I have both boxes, the a/c box blower motor will fit through a large hole in firewall the non a/c box has 4 studs which bolt through and into the fire wall. Yours looks like a non a/c heater box with an a/c blower motor? maybe the later year boxes are different? sorry not much...