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Bill if you want come down to happy valley (SE Portland) I'd be happy to help you out. I have switches et.al here. Plus a few you can look at.. I'll send you contact via PM.

except the extra wire for the alternator and connector for electronic ign it should be colored the same as factory! Follow these charts and it should get you going. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaA.jpg http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaB.jpg

Is it a conversion harness for electronic ign and dual field alt?

first picture look like alt and water temp sensor(push on) 2nd pic look like dist coil in asphalt wrap and oil sensor (grey) last starter solenoid. best to get a copy of wiring diagram from mymopar.com wiring and match up the colors.. year make and model would certainly help us help you though =)

3431532 - 1972 A body 3-spd/Var motor.

There are some numbers on the barrel of the motor. What are those numbers?

not on the rallye gauges 67-9 barracuda and 70-1 duster/dart w/ rallye cluster. Voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge. Some earlier models are also the same way.

they are not compatible. 3 speed motor runs weird, if at all, with 2 speed switch. I installed a variable switch and the problem was resolved. 3-speed/variable motor uses 4 wires, while the 2 speed only uses 3.

did you adjust the brake light switch when you installed it?

it is an am radio noise superessor. it connects to the voltage limiter power feed (lower tab pictured to left of wire end)

Matt that leese neville wiper motor could be either way 2 speed or 3-var speed. if 3 wire - 2 speed, if 4 wire - 3/var speed. The best I can tell (visually)some time in around February/march of 67 the std variable speed wiper was changed to 2 speed.

I have that length of wire from the harness of a 68 fastback. It is from the fuel sender to the trunk connector. You're welcome to it for the cost to send it..

no you'd still need the tach. This is a kit to upgrade the tach internals to modern electronics.

MaH also make a modified harness for mopar electronic ign and updated Alt and voltage reg. They can be purchased through Year One or Classic Industries. YO runs a 20% discount on Wednesdays. https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/hu258am

cant tell where the wire comes from but wondering if it was the added field wire for dual field alternator conversion.

1 click -low speed, then variable like a rheostat on a light switch, only less of a variance in resistance through the sweep, last click - it goes to high speed.

RED and Black wires are ammeter a totally different unrelated circuit. Yes, chances are the others are also burned out. could it be something else? Sure, this is a very common issue but not the only.

Yes they do repop them now as a set and with an external IVL. 430.00 + the ride.... https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/1966.74.a.b.e.body/electrical/gauges-.-reproduction/a.body-rallye-dash The real issue is that once the limiter goes it sends bat volt to the other gauges burns the...

http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/md4510.html click on picture for better view.. also https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-a-b-e-body/l38446 https://s3.amazonaws.com/gearbox-yearone-com/part-images/l/l38446.png

all barracuda/dart/duster rallye dashes (and many others) use an internal voltage limiter. They are all internal in the fuel gauge from the factory, unless converted. It controls the fuel, oil pressure and temp gauges. Amp is a separate circuit. many (not all) Non rallye use external limiter...

get a hold of redfish here and have him restore/update/calibrate it for you. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/private.php?do=newpm&u=5216

agreed, I like the packard connectors. Nearly all US manufacturers use/d them for years and years. I am perfectly fine with getting 30 to 40 YEARS from an engine wiring harness. I normally replace because the wire is suspect not the connectors. Repair the ammeter issue and you'll generally have...

if you just want to replace the factory ones they are Packard 56 series terminals. napa, oreilly's etc carries them or ebay etc. for cheaper bulk

it is the radio noise suppressor. goes to 12v feed wire to the fuel gauge as shown.

look here for your answers and if they aren't in print contact Kim personally. http://www.passion4mopars.com/

if someone had the dash out and connected the two wires going to the amp gauge backwards it will read as it was discharging.

It looks like a horn relay don't think it should be in engine compartment that year though. Part of an Fuel Pacer? Fender tag code A64 It worked with the light package when you accelerated hard the left fender turn signal came on to tell you you weren't getting maximal fuel economy

I think he means blower resistor on the top of the heater box. I would say, without looking at a schematic, you either have the wires reversed which would of had to be done physically because of the t-connector brown on top and dk-green at the bottom of the T or possibly a bad resistor. Ground...

picture - key in warning buzzer - red, yellow, blue? picture 2 the lower relay is the horn relay. Upper.. the lighting delay relay?

All rallye dash have a gauge - not a light.