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The best thing to do is to buy another one, replace/exchange the faulty part on your car and then return the failed combo, get your money back on the second one. We do that for customers all the time with brakes and such.

I get my centric K-H calipers from fast undercar. They are on the west coast. I get calipers, rotors, bearings and seals and lines for around 200 - minus the caliper cores. http://www.fastundercar.com/Static/FastUnder/Locations.aspx

shouldn't be an issue

I went through this with my 67's. The one normally listed looks nothing like the factory one which uses a center bolt on lid instead of the clip-on that is listed as the replacement. I work in parts and the books in fact they had a couple different ones listed in reman but only one listed for...

I did some research on the master cyl's for my 67 a few years ago, because of the numerous part number I was getting for the same cyl w/disc brake. From what I have found is there are 3 bore sizes, 15/16, 1" and 1-1/32. As mentioned this will change pedal effort. The second difference I have...

sounds like you just did a conversion? Were the calipers used or rebuilt? if old one or both may have stuck pistons - not uncommon. Make sure all 4 are applying properly. I use regular pads on mine and have no real issues, but expectation is in the eye I guess.

I would find some "5.5 inch" J rims, but yes certainly they came that way with SBP disc brakes. Find someone selling a Kelsey Hayes disc brake conversion they are SBP and run 2-300 as a core set. Here is a conv for sale. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=257009

I kind of went through this with my 67 with K/H disc brakes. I went through catalogs at work looking for the right master for my car. A reman I got two different part numbers one for disc one for drum, but when I looked up a new one they had the same part number for either drum or disc. So I got...

August 1st 1972 is the first day of the 1973 model year. They should be big bolt pattern single piston calipers. To use this set up on a 67 car you will need spindle assy's, lower ball joints, and upper control arms. Here is what you need to do the conversion...

run the regular bearings it is not a problem. You likely do not have a sure grip unit (pt) if you can turn one wheel with the other locked (unless very worn out). Do both while you're there may as well just do it once and be done with it. There is a hole in the axle flange and as you spin it it...

what did you find wrong with it....?

get both wheels off the ground or it will not turn with PT. Pull the suspected axle if it is still frozen with drum off. Pretty easy to do with 8.75 and inspect the axle for bad bearing. On the master cylinder different issue likely, look under the dash where the master cylinder push rod goes...

if it were the e-brake cable he would not have gotten the drum off. Certainly, not easily, as stated. With the drum still off, and in neutral. Be safe make sure car is on stands, choked, and stable. If it has a sure grip rear you need to make sure the other rear wheel is off the ground or it...

The easiest thing to do is pull the drum and inspect and measure. It looks like everywhere lists them as 9x2.5.

beat me to it!

you could also try to break a piece off of the inner flange with a good punch and hammer then fish out some bearing rollers it will come off then. then you can work on separating it from the spindle.

heat

73 parts manual shows 2073634? here is a thread on the subject also http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=116633

Try booster Dewey here in Oregon. http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/

Centric isn't exactly known for greatest product. They are one of the few who do offer the K-H Calipers at a decent price point. If you already have them. I have installed 4 sets without issue so far - probably good luck or perhaps they are getting better, Centric does use the lowest bidder so...

You can get them probably from your neighborhood parts store. It's a small 8" if I recall correctly. I think from the factory they were gold zink plated, not anodized. So if your restoring the rebuild yours option might be a more correct option. I would check prices on both then decide what best...

I got calipers, rotors, bearings/seals, pads and hoses all for 185.00. Centric makes the calipers and rotors. That price was after caliper cores which was 100.00 hoses, bearings etc can all be had from a parts store

find someone local who sells centric brakes. They do cost effective reman's left - 141.63008 right -141.63007

I guess I should ask, are you using the Kelsey/Hayes 4 piston calipers or converting to big bolt pattern single piston caliper - as this will make a difference?

I just replaced mine... Ill see if I can find the part numbers. believe they were centric... are you referring to the rubber line, or the short steel crossover lines? they are a double male as there is an adapter line from the caliper