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what corner? on the outside of the bezel 67 had one at bottom corner in the black, and 68 had 2 in the black the same lower corner and one about midway.

code M25 on 1969 GTS was standard. It was optional on all other Dart models, including the Swinger.

2 speed or 3-speed?

if it is the factory stuff still in there, even soap and water probably wont help. The gasket gets hard and grabs into the lock strip. the lock strip is plastic and is brittle on its own. It will break apart when you try to remove it. Even the new lock strips have a shrinking issue as the...

Unfortunately, it is becoming a dying breed and even harder to find someone who does the bright dip anodize. You may have to look outside your area. Good luck!

I use base/clear on inner door frames. I think some of the wear you've seen are from many things. Abrasive clothing is can be and probably some of the worst reasons... would you wipe you car off with a denim shirt? I believe we are a bit more mindful of these things after going through the...

GTS insert I assume? bottom plate chrome outer with flat/matte black inside. Top stack chrome with red "vent" insides.

beat me to it lol!!

I would take the deck lid to paint store and have them match/tint color from that.

I edited my post above. I went out and looked at my Duster and it is under not over.. Maybe you can remove the rear sail panel screws and tuck it under??

I am kind of thinking the gasket should be under the sail panel not over it. Yup, I just went out and looked at mine it is under not over...

The WCRD690B is for a 67 w/ lockstrip. If you're going to update to SS Trim you need the 1968-9 gaskets - WCRD690 for front, and WCRDB3847 for fastback rear.

headlight bezels were polished also

old thread - and actually the correct rivets are semi-tubular 1/8x 7/32 and 9/32 and are squeezed and or pressed. From the pictures I've seen he does not do them this way. They appear to be "pop" rivets. I do use squeeze rivets though. Correct on the stud though albeit a weak design, as I...

Yes, for the most part just ran water through the outside cowl vents. I had an advantage in that the fenders, and glass were out of the car as well as the complete dash assy, heater and vent boxes.

Here are a couple I just took. They are the same at least from 67 to 76 (checked my 75 to be sure)

I didn't really have any problems getting the stuff out from around the hats. I dont have long fingers either. I used a leather glove and just went around the hats, blew with air from any place I had access and when I thought I had all the big stuff out (side drain holes coming clean) I used...

Ouch! I would have removed the heater box and left air box and reached up through the hole and scooped/blown/rinsed/vacuumed that stuff out. I've seen a lot of similar stuff here with all the pine needles and mold - turning to mulch. There are caps on each side of the cowl in the hood hinge...

68-9 rear stainless window trim is about $2-300 for a fastback. Ad $20 for clips and screws. It won't shrink like the 67 trim and need replacing yet again. The front stainless trim is the same barracuda or dart (32-series - non vert/post/4-dr) and ranges around 100 used brand new is 225. Window...

I assume you're referring to the frame primarily. Have you put any thought into powercoating it? It is a very hard, durable, lower cost alt to paint...

I interpret it as the body was dipped in primer to 15 inches to get complete under car coverage, and the rest sprayed on and then baked dry prior to paint. So it would make sense as to what you're seeing as primer.

hope these help... The black is probably part of the phosphate dip process. http://www.mmcdetroit.com/ICCA/References/Chassis/ http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1967/67_Plymouth_Engineering0031.jpg...

indeed wingnut and all lol

I forgot to add the large wingnut!

spare center through bolt, jack base, pressboard cover, cup piece then the small wing nut. http://dalescudashop.com/zjjain10.html

PM challengergary here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/private.php?do=newpm&u=4892 he can probably make them for you, if he already doesn't make them.

I had an error. The 69, not 68, right mirror was code G-31 The angle of the mirror frame is slightly different for passenger side. This is the only style they came in IF the passenger side mirror was factory...

My black car is a factory right mirror. i'm restoring another one that is a factory right mirror car. In 67 the mirror (either really) is pretty worthless due to the position of the mirror back on the door, where in 68-9 it was moved to the vent post and much more useful then the 67 location...

The original blackout color was Organosol - PPG code DDL-9355. I searched and found this, maybe it will help you? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=141174

they were just decorative and never functional from the factory. Not sure I would cutup a factory set either. However, If you do decide to go that way I do know where a set that are already cut are.