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I believe his name was Sanborn. A circle track guru. Had a wealth of information about oiling and coolant mods for Mopar small blocks.

Well, kind of. I disassembled the carb as far as I was comfortable doing and gave it a very thorough cleaning. Reassembled and tested without making any other changes and surprisingly the stumble was almost gone completely. It still had a little bit of a hiccup at very light throttle while...

Please do let us know the results of the swap. My 422 W2 build is almost ready to button up and I am torn between a M1 dual plane that I have on the shelf or looking for a single plane to use. Please PM me with your combo if it’s not a secret :thankyou:

I bet that left a big pile of chips on the floor.

Oookaaaaaay, do you have a picture of said intake or should we just try to imagine it? Share the intake ****.

^^^^This is what I’ve suspected the whole time. Question is, how to correct it? I’m not sure I’m interested in trying to drill out these tiny holes or press in new ones. Perhaps a replacement adjustable metering block is in order here. I briefly considered a ProForm main body but they do not...

These? Drilled .028”

Hole at top of dogleg is .027”

MAB - #72 bit (.024”) IAB - .053“ This hole at bottom of main well .031”. (Idle jet)

Pics

I’ll post more pics of the metering block when I get home from work. Still waiting on the pin drills to arrive.

So how can I tell if there’s tubes in it?

Primary metering block. Anything look wonky?

How do I block off the boosters?

The driver side booster comes on at 2050 rpm and the passenger side doesn’t come on until 2250. Runs smooth as a sewing machine though. Gonna let it cool down and pull it apart.

Pin drills are on the way. Gonna yank the carb again tonight and break it down for another inspection and cleaning. Will measure all bleeds and report back with results and some pics of metering block. I’m beginning to wonder if ordering a Proform main body isn’t the way to go here. Could be...

I’ve tried initial timing settings all the way from 10* to 22* and everywhere in between while recurving the distributor to achieve settings of 30* to 38* total. The stumble seems to occur just as I start to give it a little more throttle during cruise. I have a vacuum gauge in the car and the...

30cc pumps front/rear. 28 squirter front 31 rear. I don’t think it has anything to do with the acc pump. If I mat the throttle it takes off, no hesitation or stumble at all. Only hiccup is during very light throttle cruise when starting to give it a hair more throttle. Just a half second...

6-6.5. Holley mechanical pump. -6AN line from pump to carb.

It still stumbles with the vacuum pod disconnected and plugged. I’ve tried adjusting the pod from all the way in to all the way out. Still there. No.

OLD Holley 650 DP. Non-adjustable air bleeds. Stumble is in the transition from idle circuit to mains during very light throttle cruise. Like after coasting down a small hill and just starting to tickle the throttle at the bottom of the dip before rolling back in to it.

I’m still fighting this God-forsaken stumble! I’m on the verge of throwing this damn carb off the bridge with glee. I’ve tried initial timing all the way from 22 to 10 degrees btdc with multiple curves to 30 - 38 total. Still stumbles on the transition. I’m all the way up to 75/77 jets, 28...

Tons of great information here Matt. I wish you were my neighbor! I really appreciate everyone’s input on this. I have quite a bit of testing to do now and will work through it when I can and try my best to report back here. I have a very bad habit of changing two or three things at a time...

I figured retarding timing is the same as adding fuel. Therefore if the stumble disappeared with less timing the same would be true with more fuel added to the previous timing setting. Is that nuts?

Ok. This is turning into a dog turd, the more I mess with it the messier it’s getting. This is what I’ve tried so far: Disconnected vacuum pod and plugged port. Drove it and got it to stumble, though seemingly not as bad. Retarded timing all the way back to 10 initial which made my mechanical...

Checked the timed port for vacuum at idle - nada. My t-slots are even more closed than the second picture shows.

Any idea how wide the sweep is? What I mean is if the screw is backed all the way out, at what rpm does it begin to move? What if it’s cranked in the whole way? Does that disable the advance or what rpm is now required to activate it?

Timed port on carb

Correct, two corner idle, front block only.