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@weedburner Knowledgeable guy when it comes to clutches.

I have not proven it myself, but rumor on the street is that GL-5 does not play well with brass synchronizers. YMMV. Personally I use Redline in my 833.

Could you elaborate on the slick shift kit? There is zero description on Passon’s website. Have you spoken to them about it?

The Grump did it with STYLE!

Clutch not releasing. Z- bar bushings in good shape? Correct pedal to z-bar rod? What clutch kit did you install? Years ago I had a Hays borg/beck clutch and one of the 3 fingers on the pressure plate would back out of adjustment so the throw out bearing did not contact all 3 fingers equally...

While you’re digging, if you come across any factory 4 speed Abody linkage rods, I’d be interested in that too! Thanks!

Gonna try to repair what I have. If that fails I’ll call the ShifterDoc for a replacement stick. (Or have the machine shop make one?)

I’ve stopped by the machine shop twice this week and both times they were closed even though it was during their posted open hours. So I’m losing faith in them. I’m seriously starting to consider the repair that 19DART66 mentioned above about welding a 1/2-20 grade 8 bolt on the end. Agreed that...

I don’t believe I can get a larger diameter threaded area out of it. The stick goes from round to flat just below the old threads. I’ll be lucky if I can get the same 3/8 threads on it again. I did find a replacement stick on eBay but I think I want to try and repair the old one first. Taking...

Yeah, I figured that I should probably go back to the T handle but I just love the pistol grip so much. It does add height therefore adding throw distance but it is so much more natural feeling. Mostly I’m looking for any advice on disassembling far enough to remove the stick from the body and...

So I guess I got a little carried away and was a little too aggressive with the shifting. The threaded end of the stick snapped off right at the bottom of the threads. What would you say is the best way to repair this? Notice I said BEST, not easiest because I don’t plan to change my shifting...

In my personal experience, the problem occurred more often during high rpm shifts.

Remove the nut that holds the 3/4 lever on the trans cover. Pull the lever off the stud, give it two turns clockwise to shorten the rod length, reinstall, test. I recently had a little trouble with mine going into 4th. In my case I lengthened the 3/4 rod two turns to correct it. Fixed.

Shorten up the 3/4 rod 2 turns.

Lenco, Liberty, or Jerico. Probably looking at $6-$8k for trans and slipper clutch and all the accoutrements. Being cool costs $$$$.

If you don’t mind sharing, about how much money do you have in the faceplating including shipping and all required parts/gaskets? I have a spare trans under the bench that needs a freshening up. I’d be interested to know how much this process would add to the cost of a basic rebuild (new...

Correct

:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Looks like it’s in good company in that garage. Tell me more about the RR.....

Holy Chit! Was all the friction material laying in the bottom of the inspection cover?

:popcorn: The Grump had so much style that it gives me chills.

If the boot is not contacting the yoke, something is wrong. Either wrong yoke or wrong boot.

Glad someone is still dedicated to it.

Kinda what I figured but thought I’d give it a shot. Just gonna call tomorrow. As a wise man once said here, “pick your parts and pay your money”.

Anyone have discount or coupon code for Brewers? About to place an order. Thanks!

Any update on how this worked out?

That's a bummer. I've had that clutch kit in my Duster for 10 years now. It gets flogged mercilessly and still holding up. Was planning to replace the disc with another Hays piece when the time came, now maybe not.

I'm using the V-Gate in my Duster. Once I got the adjustments tuned in, it's been awesome. No easier way to power shift than straight back and forth:thumbsup: