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This gives you an ide off what it looks like. B-body motor mount, and bubber bracket. make a mount to fit the rubber bracket and weld to K-member is one way to do it. A single line oil system, hi volume pump and OEM pump cover in this case.

Nice... You need ´68, I think pre ´70 B-body Hemi motor mounts. Look them up. Depending on witch oil pump and oil system you are using, you may have to trim some off, to make it fit. Looks like the motor bracket you have, had this done to it. The bracket that is welded to the K-member, make your...

Yes re-drilling was my initial idea to, but to be able to fine tune both sides with car on wheels and ready to go and everything would be perfect... Anyhow this calls for two days of measuring before welder comes near the rear end... at least that´s what I fell...

Yes, not a bad idea. Agree, but it might be possible to cut of half an inch or even more off of the block? Thanks for posting.

I think you have the answer in this pic. The passenger side leaf spring has more arch thus distance between spring eyes appear to be shorter. This only effect the rear segment of course. A spacer at the passenger side rear spring mount is probably what you need. (As some already have said) Also...

Yes, well I got the impression this ´72 Scamp is a street car, and as such the SS Springs are not working at their full potential Since in order to transfer the to torque and lift the body, you need a good bite.

What you say is "pinion snubbed can't do it's job without longer shocks, regardless of which springs use". You may very well be right about this, I just don´t understand what you mean. I mean there are quite a few variables here. Tire/rim combination indicate you are at the track?

Can you elaborate on this please... Thanks

My guess is you wouldn´t need longer shocks unless you are at the track using slicks. Street tires don´t get the bite to lift the body very much . Pic is of 25" long Imperial Shock.

Yes, right. Didn´t read your question through...

Depending on what you are looking for in terms of original correctness. I used Restorick. Looks correct and fits very well.

Could be Chrysler soon found out the angle of rear shackle was not optimal with the 35" segment, and added an extra inch. Just a thought...

According to Direct Connection Racing Manual, #30 Rear Suspension, both 35" and 36" rear segment are used on the SS springs. I have a set of the 35" type. And when it comes to the rear shocks, the recommended HD Imperial Shocks are at least 25" eye to eye extended.

If I may add this, and get your view on it. I have two new sets of HD Imperial Shocks, but they are very hard to extend (easier to compress) One would like them to work more like the front shocks, and not bind against the leaf springs when lifting the chassis? Or is it the power of the leaf...

Yes, but as described in post 19, I don´t think this is the case here. This is a race car, and with the slight rear steer needed, witch means negative Thrust Angle (post #22) and dog tracking, I see no other way to deal with this problem on my car... Thank you for your in put.

BTW, how much concern should I pay to these front eye bushings? They are from the seventies, but used very little (some racing)... Some cracks, yes, but not that much can happen... or?

Yes, that would be a safe way to do it, but body is in the rotisseries, so I want to get this as close as perfect as I can now. To determine rear axel is angled with the body, I took this stainless steel rod, and hook in to passenger side rear k-member bolt hole. I measure to the drivers side...

Ok, and you put shims by the front hangers? Would relocate hole in the pad (U-bolts) be a way also?

Interesting, and make sense too. Now my car is even more off. On mine, drivers side is more forward. I´ll really have to look in to this. Thank you.

Yes, you mean I can do it on my own. Good idea... Thanks

Not happy with my old goat now... why isn't she one bit cooperative here. Picture shows measurement from center of rear axel, to lower front lip of rear right wheel well. Well, 15"+ is fine, but on the other side it´s more than half an inch less. I haven't done any cross measuring yet, but...

Well the steering box is no problem of cause, but I found this manual steering column (around same year as mine) with shifter, and I assume and hope, swapping the parts from my old column (´68 Barracuda no shifter on the column), to this longer manual steering column, can be done? Before I start...

Question: Did the Lakewood 3 point Roll Bar for Mopar A-Body, have the rear bar directed towards were the Snubber meet the flor pan. On GM Cars I think this bar meet the left front spring hanger?

Yes thanks, I have been on their site too, and yes, a lot of nice pic, but still it´s hard to tell the specific issue I need to clear out... I think I need help from someone with the same model as mine, since Lakewood offered a number of different sets for different applications.

Hi, I want to make and install an old school 3 point Lakewood Roll Bar in my ´68 Barracuda, and want it to look period correct for the late sixties racers. Question: was this post in a vertical position? I would like the loop to be a little more in line with the center of the seat. This can be...

Ok, in that case I should be able to run 29,s. Thank´s

thanks, Well, I plan on using slicks. How tall are the 275/60´s?

Ok thanks Justin, I have a Dana 60, and it would be interesting to know the difference if any, between the 8 3/4 and the Dana 60 if you measure axle centerline to pinion yoke j-unit centerline? When I refer to the 44.8" drive shaft, is a figure I got from the SS Hemi Guide of Jim Schild. In it...

I did a little more research in the subject, and found this. This of cause will put the leaf spring forward. 1/4 of an inch to be exact. I doubt the Ramchargers Guys made these offset brackets other than the production car brackets, when it comes to this measurement. On the other hand one never...

Yes, right now i follow you... Thanks