Search results for query: *

Just a quick correction...3500lbs race weight @ 22PSI. Thanks for the kind words Bill!

The gap at the top of the piston is usually wider to accomodate for piston expansion due to heat. Usually you take a measurement on the skirt just below the oil ring (for piston to wall clearance).

I ran 12's with a set up like that.

green kind (color)

Or add some friendly boost.

I usually get them for free.

I had some USA made FI line fail in less than a year on my 85 fi turbo Chrysler. It split in 6 places. Can't trust anything these days.

They measured 1.39 if you want to be more exact.

Not the ones I've checked...mostly in the 1.4:1 range.

Use a stock 87 Buick turbo. Cheap and reliable.

Didn't ask and the subject didn't come up.

Mine were early and I sent them back and they put the needed tang slot in.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5579&start=120

Here is the last 1/4 mile list from .org ***9 Second Zone*** 9.85 @ ??? The Drakes, 1938 Simca 9.93 at 132 Charles Myers, Plymouth Arrow, 6/21/2003 9.97 @ ??? Cox Bros, 66 Dart ***10 Second Zone*** 10.19 @ 129 Mike Jeffrey and Blaine Mueller's "Buzzin' Half Duzzin' 1968 Valiant 10.5 @...

That's what I thought too. The only thing I can assume is...since the adjuster was moved closer to the fulcrum, the lengh of needed push rod was increased because I moved the adjuster further away from the factory centerline.

The ones I modded came out to 1.57:1. I only checked one arm. It was 1.39 when I started.

If I didnt have a 15 mph headwind I would be in the 10's. Regardless, the mph supports it and I have not turned up the wick. I still have 8 psi of boost to add if I like. A bigger carb might just work before I add boost. Plus, I shift at 5500 rpm and launch on the foot brake around 3300...

Don't worry about it. Just put it in and go.

The welding did seem a little more difficult than mild steel. The nice part is you can weld 360 degrees around the cut and maintain its strength. TIG welding would work nice here. As you can see, not much heat is put into the arm. I used a standard cut off wheel. .070" I believe. It moved...

I ran these for about 30 minutes on a stock head. Not the greatest welding but had no issues. Oil made it to the push rod ball/cup with no issues.

I've discussed this with Bill and have actually modified the factory arms. I made the cut closer to the adjuster bolt. Nothing fancy, .070" cutoff wheel and mig welded back together. I think the ratio is in the area of 1.58:1. I never checked each arm individually to see their difference but...

No, that one is a little short.

Turbo slant six. Amsoil 10/40 Full synthetic. API service SL/SF, SJ, SH. AMOQT.

Don't bother with the balance job...get the weights close for each cyl. I didn't balance mine on the advice of my machinest and have no issues. Balance and smoothness An inline six engine is in perfect primary and secondary mechanical balance, without the use of a balance shaft. The engine...

Here is a link to a head I cut up. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38066

I follow his car on Turbo Mopars. Very impressive for sure.

Depends. What is the application?

see here...19 pages http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28649&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 8 more pages here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41854 Many more threads on SS.O

Already using a modern DBB turbo with improved impeller technology. It's been on SS.O for quite a while now.

Right on statement!!!