Search results for query: *

Turning torque will be different, depending on if the spark plugs are installed, and if the valve train is installed. More compression and more valve spring pressure will increase the turning torque. I have assembled engines that would turn over at 12 inch lbs, until the spark plugs and push...

I would think that if it was the offset, all the intake lobes would be affected. My buddy tried a set of Crane roller lifters years ago, with a R block W7 heads. The first run on the engine snapped the tie bar holding the lifters together. His thought was the offset put a side load on the lifter...

It has been quite a few years since I purchased my Brodix heads, but I thought that they had the ability to be drilled for accessories. If I was going to drill mine, I wouldn’t drill past the thickness of the boss cast in the head .

I don’t think that I would block the oil to the drivers side lifter galley and install the crossover on a hydraulic lifter cam.

I have a bunch of factory push rods, I can check if you want me to. I have used 5/16 and 3/8 diameter already. I have removed some out of 318 engines, that I thought were pretty skinny, but I haven’t measured them

One way will be advanced, one way will be retarded. I would be best to check the centerline of the cam with a degree wheel. But I can tell you that all the cams that I checked, I have not retarded the cam to get the recommended or required position.

My thoughts are that different timing chain manufacturers have different specifications for their timing chain sets. I do not mix up different gears and chains, learned that as a kid messing with dirt bikes. Always change the drive chain and gears as a set

I usually put the cam gear at 6 o’clock, and crank gear at 12 o’clock, because it is easier to see if you are a tooth off. Which I think is tdc #6 firing. If you turn the crank 1 turn, the cam gear mark will be at 12 o’clock and #1 firing. This is after degreeing the cam. I degree every one...

Some of the old purple shaft cams had no identification marks or numbers. I have had a few, the first cam I bought was a used .484 purple stripe cam for $10, because the guy couldn’t get it to idle in his 340. But no identification on it.

I had 2 blocks, a 360 and a 73 340, that the snap rings have popped out from the factory and the wrist pins scored the cylinder walls. I have never had a spirolox pop out.

I think the timing marks are on the passenger side on the 68, and the driver side on the 73. So I would use the 68 damper with the 68 timing cover, and the 73 damper with the 73 cover. Or remark tdc on the damper

I have used the Napa 1348 oil filter, smaller than the one you pictured. I do have a few 90* adapters if you need them.

I used the Cometic. 028 thick gaskets on a 340 that I built to get the quench correct. Probably what I would use. And even if you have the geometry correct, your cam lift will not be what is advertised. If you are planning on lift to bleed off cylinder pressure

There is a place near me that makes and sells them. Jones is the company, mostly small block Chevy and dirt track stuff, but they have Mopar stuff too. I put a small block Mopar set up on a 69 Dart street car for a friend of mine. Crank, water pump and alternator.

I have the B1-BA heads on my 340, and they work fine and have had zero problems. I think the BAMC uses an offset intake rocker . Not sure how the availability of rockers is.

I have sprayed them with Copper Coat, and let them dry before installing. And have not had any problems. The 440 I just took apart, the builder used Moroso multi layer head gaskets, about.050 thick. They started the engine with no water, and ran it for 5 minutes. Then let it cool down, added...

I just disassembled one similar to that, he wasn’t so lucky. The person who assembled the engine put #3 piston in #4 hole, and #4 piston in #3 hole. They had the connecting rods on correct. Didn’t make 1 run down the 1/4 mile, snapped both intake valves off. Heads are out trying to get fixed now

It can be done, I have 2 that have. I used the Brodix B1-BA heads on one and Trick Flows on another.

I think that the last block I had lifter bore bushings installed, they drilled a .040 hole in them. I can double check if needed. That is what my buddy used for his R block W7 engine, with push rod oiling.

NOX is usually EGR related, the egr valve could be working properly but if the ports are carboned up it will not flow enough to work correctly

I have one with the same modifications, I picked up cleaning out my buddy’s garage. I have not tried it on anything yet

I just put together a 1969 340 engine, with a Comp hydraulic roller and Howards Hydraulic roller lifters and Trick Flow heads. I had to clearance the block for the tie bar rivets , and I don’t think the lifters would fit with the heads on. So I installed the lifters before installing the heads.

Is the flow on the stock Speedmasters compatible to a stock Edelbrock ?

Very nice work. I have a Strip Dominator on my B1-BA heads, and a Super Victor on my Trick Flow. Have you ever not port matched the intake manifold to the gasket, intentionally left it smaller to help with revision?

Seems like there is no downside to the backcut

In all the timing tape I installed, I think that I got one to stick more than 15 minutes. I usually index the damper and make my own marks before installing. Might have light advance springs with the vacuum advance hooked up. Or maybe no advance springs. That is what I would check. You didn’t...

Inspect the intake gasket carefully when removing the intake manifold, I worked on my friends car, and his brand new manifold was not straight. Was sucking oil from the cam valley

Mancini has a new one listed