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Im not familiar with some terminology in your post, but for engine without turbo, backfire often cause by ignition timing. I would try to adjust timing first.

For me crankshaft rotating assembly balance is NOT important, you only waste time and money for it. Before the engine assemble, engineer has calculated how part will be made, weight, length..etc to make sure that when they put them together, they will achieve the BEST balanced. As long as...

Can anyone please confirm that 340 cast crank 72-73 has 1 inch holes drilled through the "connecting-rods journal" number #1 and #4 while the 318 cast crank 68-73 is solid, no holes drilled? Thanks in advance.

hehe hehe

Does that mean I need either; 1/ "balanced flexplate" AND "neutral converter" OR 2/ "original flexplate" AND "balanced converter" For option 1/ I can do-it-myself and option 2/ I must go to machine shop let them do the job, is that right? Im sorry but this is my first time work on these thing!

I have quick search "cast crank balancer" over the net and come out with this eBay: 350342186631. Is that thing locate in front of the engine right behind the pulley? If so i dont think I need it, its already there:

Can you be more detail? What is 73 balancer? and where I can get them? (what is different betwwen balancer vs B&M flexplate? ) As for a B&M flexplate, I couldnt find one for 340/904 combo, but 340/727 only.

I just bought a 73-340, it going to my 73 Barracuda 318 with 904 trans. I dont want switch to 727. The question is do I need to balance this 73-340 to work with 904 trans? If so, how to do that(balance)? The 73 340 was pulled from a running 73 Cuda. It only has flex-plate right now. Thank in...