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It's probably just misfiring - I don't have a good ear for this car or American V8s in general yet (used to aircooled 4cylinders and Italian stuff...) but I don't hear anything that sounds like pinging. By "unplugged" I mean I remove the vacuum line from the carb and cap off the carb. I tried...

I've got it richened up quite a lot right now - 3 steps richer for cruise, and two stips richer on power (according to the edelbrock chart for me carb). I also have an AFR gauge. AFR with the vacuum advance unplugged at cruise and idle is really rich - 11.5-12, down to 9-10 at WOT. With the...

So, I tried backing the initial timing all the way off to 0* TDC. It's a little bit better, but I'm still getting a lot of hesitation and stuttering that I didn't get with the vacuum advanced unplugged (this, mind you, is on 93 octane gas). Especially just off-idle My engine is far from a...

I've gone ahead and done the scientific thing - here's a graph of the advance with the vacuum unplugged, and put on ported. The advance numbers (vertical line) are the timing minus my initial timing (11* right now, which still seems to be too much for it with the vacuum advance plugged in)...

That's what I've noticed - with the VA off and capped, it drives just fine. Plugged in, and it won't cruise without popping and stumbling.

I'll double check - it's on the passenger's side port on the Edelbrock, which *should* be ported according to the manual. My engine does make a lot of vacuum, though. 15-20" at idle.

Hey everyone. I've got a weird distributor issue that took me way too long to diagnose (since I kept thinking it was fuel - classic mistake...) This is a recently rebuilt 318 original to my '69 Barracuda. Pretty much stock except for dual exhaust and 4 barrel intake/carb. My (probably...

Hi everyone. I've got a very mild 318 (~8.7CR with essentially a 340 cam, edelbrock performer manifold and carb) and I'm my stock '69 2bbl air cleaner that's had the base adapted to the 4bbl carb. This is a single snorkel intake, and I'm wondering if it's going to be too much of a restriction on...

Well I don't want to butcher any rare parts that someone else could use, that's for sure. I'll see what the largest diameter pre-70 2 groove I can find is. My math tells me that the cast iron pulley (156mm) I bought will give my WP (145mm) a 7.8% overdrive, while my original (187mm) was about a...

Something just occurred to me while looking at my pulley. It appears to be the outer groove that's rubber mounted. I don't need this groove anymore since my AC bracket has the compressor and PS pump sharing the second groove. I'd like to keep the larger diameter inner groove to drive my water...

Interesting, so no alignment issues with using the March 3 groove? Is there pulley listed for '69 and earlier or '70 and later engines?

So I thought I'd share an update on what is becoming the most annoying saga... As it turns out, I do not need a 3v pulley. My Sanden compressor bracket for the peanut compressor retrofit changes the belt layout to two belts: Crank->AC->PS and Crank->Alt->WP. My 3 groove pulley lines up...

So the earlier pulleys have an extra groove? Mine has three grooves on the crank pulley, which I thought was the same number as the later cars.

I might just order one of these pulleys to see if it fits. In my reading about the swap from the early to late water pump on small blocks, I only ever see mention of changing the pump, radiator, hoses, and (if you want to be able to see your timing marks) the timing cover and balancer. If...

If anyone's interested, I just measured the depths of the three groves from the base (damper end) of the pulley. Groove 1: ~1-1/2" Groove 2: ~2-1/8" Groove 3: ~2-7/8"

Hmm, maybe it is the depth then. Although, I would think that would mean an alternator pulley or power steering pulley would be different post-70 as well. If anyone has a 70+ 3-groove pulley and would be willing to measure the depths from the balancer to each notch, I would be interested to do...

Hey everyone. I'm trying to find a suitable replacement for my '69 3-groove pulley (for my power steering/AC 1969 Barracuda). MAncini racing has one that looks like it would work CVF Small Block Chrysler Crankshaft Pulley - 3V . But, they say it's only for 70-later with the water pump outlet on...

Thanks everyone! For those curious, I took some measurements to determine how thick the plug was. From the top of the oil sending hole to the plug was 7-13/16" (verified twice). From the main bearing hole to the other side of the plug was 1-23/64". The total height from the top of the oil...

The arrow (I think the part that looks ridged in the photo) is pointing to the oil bore; the top of the plug is the very bright white disc above that (my light is reflecting off it)

So, whatever it is that's in my block is 7-3/4" from the top of the block and 1-23/64" from the bottom. I think I can also see the ridge of the plug a little bit when I look down in the oil sender hole, but it's hard to tell. It really seems like there's an upside-down plug in there, but...

I may end up needing to get a borescope to verify this - it's hard to see in there, but what it *looks* like is that there was block casting on the path between the oil sender hole and the main bearing cap hole. My hammering punctured this casting, and I can see what looks like a little bit of...

This plug is seriously in there - I'm giving it big wallops with my 5lb sledge and it's not budging or even denting on the main bearing side. That much force without any movement is the point where I say STOP and double-check that there's nothing that I could break by continuing to hammer it -...

I hired them (amongst the other machine and cleaning work) to remove and replace the cam bearings and freeze/oil plugs. I don't have a cam bearing tool so this made sense, but in retrospect I should have just done the plugs myself - I ended up having to pull most of them again anyway to actually...

I don't see anything meaningful in the '69 FSM about the plug, just a general diagram of the oil flow

It seems like you would tap it out through the distributor clamp bolt hole at the top of the block Edit: meant the oil pressure sender hole. Here's another photo; it's the best my crappy camera could do looking at it through the oil filter housing hole

So, I'm following the pre-flight check on assembling my '69 318, and I'm having trouble determining if the main bearing oil galley plug is actually installed - it looks like it's just the block metal and I can see into passages that run parallel to it. Here are a couple photos; the bottom is...

I've never had the car up past 35 - the old nylon timing gear gave out before I got past the initial shakedown phase. Ultimately I'll probably have the car geared on the low side when I get an 8.75 rear end. One last question on the 252H - it says I need different valve springs, but I can't...

Good questions - 904 auto with stock converter, '69 Barracuda. I'm unsure of the rear end gearing, but it's a 7.25 so I will probably be trying to find an 8.75 to swap out at some point soon anyway. Tires are F70-14 Polyglass.

Hi everyone. I'm on that magical phase where I'm trying to pick a cam for my '69 318. Specs are as follows: -675 heads, stock (albeit with a 3-angle valve job and some other rebuild work) -block bored 40 over -stock crank and rods -KB 167 pistons yielding a calculated 8.94:1 CR -stock manifolds...

So a little update on what I ended up doing - My process was as follows: 0. Knock out the freeze plugs 1. Get as much gunk as I can broken loose with a long thin screwdriver 2. Spray a bunch of Gibbs (like WD-40 but better) on the engine to keep the flash rust at bay. 3. Spray the crap out of...