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If you have a little black button in the middle of your wiper switch, it came with the electric pump. You can buy one from any ford/mustang repo supplier. If there is not a black button, you had a manual foot pump. You should be able to find one on here.

Pop the name plate off the door. It is just clipped on. Under that plate is 2 big holes. The tension screw is accessed through the hole.

If you don't want exact repro. jc whitney sells cloth covered windlace.

It should be under the dash.

When I did mine I had to fab. I used 2x3 square tubing and welded them on to the bottom of the subframes. Now days you have suppliers like the one in the link that makes them to fit the floor contours. http://autorust.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=273

x2 on sub frame. I installed some 15 yrs ago after mine started. It worked.

That sounds like a light switch. Does it happen to look like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Tru-Tech-DS165T-Headlight-Switch-/160856685496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChrysler&hash=item2573ce3bb8&vxp=mtr

It could be on there to make people wonder "what's that do?"

383= bigger headache. Yes it will fit with a bit of persuasion and a lot of sheet metal massaging. The 360 with a 904 is a straight up, drop in and bolt up. With the 383 you're only gaining 23ci and about a 100 pounds of dead weight. If I where doing it this is what I would do for a 360 auto...

I can tell you I run a 205r70 14 on the back at stock height. It's got about an inch from fender and spring. It will depend on backspace and wheel size. The next size would be 195r75 14. Thats what the other one has with american racing wheels.

Thanks for reminding me Grim. I made a bracket for the z-bar ball stud on the bell to line up with the fender side stud. I used the 75 a-body fork and made up a shorter rod from the z bar with a steel cone instead of the factory rubber piece. I had a solid steel Z-bar made up (before repros)...

Soak it in mineral spirits. Since you back glass is flatish, check with your local glass jobber and see if they can make one.

The only thing that I ran into is header/exhaust clearance. It is tighter. There are ears at the lower bottom on the factory aluminum bell that I had to cut off. Running a mini starter helps with some clearance. Headers are not going to fit with that in the early A unless you run fender well...

I think someone has been hitting the Foster's a little to much.

I have never seen that on a stateside car. Or, heard of it as an option. i wonder if it could be installed on a US car? The columns appear the same externally. Just the shifter and signals are reversed.

Is that a column lock with a key? Or, is that the column mount?

I have always liked the styling on the Ausie cars. It's like they tried a little bit harder then they did state side. The interior looks so much nicer compared to a US model. What I always thought was interesting is the foot controls are standard world wide based off the early cadillac. But, the...

Thanks Gary, I got them on the way. But for 70 some dollars, they better change themselves.

I posted this in the trany section also. But I know mostly post 66 guys lurk there. I have a 64 pushbutton 904 that thinks it is an sr-71. Napa use to have a full kit but not anymore. I need the park quadrant gasket and seal, and the gear selector seals. I can get the pan and filter set all...

1 not sure what the spacer is. 2 your ornament won't fit snugly into the horn ring center. Try obtaining an o ring from a parts store or using a rubber band around it in the groove. 3 I believe the felt silencer you are referring to goes between the medallion and ring /button base. I see no...

Yes you do. There is a bolt in each lower side, 2 steering column bolts , and the bolts on the top under the gasket.

I had 800 total in a pair for my 64 about 12 years ago. After I got rear-ended I would love to find another to replace my right one.

I ground down the lower port casting just a bit, same on the manifold and made spacers with 1/4 aluminum plate for the ports. I had done the same thing your buddy did with another set of heads and it took 6 years before the water jacket rusted through.

Make sure the calipers are positioned correctly and not upside down. Is the bleeder screw on the top or bottom of the caliper? The bleeder should be at the top. Make sure the M/C and proportioning valve has been bled. Normally you will have to wait a day and let everything settle and bleed...

Or you could get one of these and machine accordingly. http://www.buyracingparts.com/mopar-offset-distributor-low-deck.html

If the photo is of the model you are making. The first problem I see is the overflow nipple is on the wrong side.

Yes and yes. From experience I would recommend welding a steel plate to reinforce the holes in the K. Mine ripped out after about a year because the k frame is just thick sheet metal. As far as it being bent. How badly and where?

Before jumping on the rebuild expense. Remove your speedo and clean the 40 years of dried up gunk from it. Lubricate it with 3 in 1 oil at the input and center bearing. Do not over lube it. Turn the input buy hand in the direction of increasing speed until it spins freely. Pull the cable out of...

340 manifolds use to be cost prohibitive at one time. Maybe they still are to some of us. They don't work on 4speed cars with the 10.5 bell because of the Z-bar linkage.

I have to buy the 26- 28 long refills. Reuse the clips from your old blades. Cut them in half with tin snips and I end up with 2 pair.