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"Coaxial" is a bit of a misnomer. technically, all it means is the speakers share the same centerline. Typically it's used to mean a two way setup- a woofer and a tweeter...with the tweeter centered. "Triaxial" is used to mean a three speaker system, even though technically it means there are...

A cursory glance at Crutchfield shows 90dB is the mid to higher end of sensitivity for 6.5" speakers they have available. They are fine, but I wouldn't throw 300 watts at them with that smallish magnet. With that 90dB sensitivity- means they will be efficient at lower wattage anyway.

I thought 90 was pretty effecient on those car speakers.

Those 6.5's have impressive specs- handles up to 30 watts RMS (300 watts peak power) impedance: 4 ohms frequency response: 40-22,000 Hz sensitivity: 90 dB Hard to find 40 Hz response in something that small. However, the magnet looks tiny. I've found "sound guy's intuition" judging of...

Your 6.5's will likley "roll off" at a certain freq, so a filter may not be necessary at all*. What does the crossover control say? If the 6.5's will do 60 Hz, then technically setting the sub crossover at 60 would be "correct", however, your ears will tell you what sounds good. You really...

So... "Phase" Flips the phase of the speaker. That can compensate for that speaker being a lot farther away than the others. Flip it and see if it helps. Crossover is liakely the pass frequency of what goes to the sub. Anything below "X" to the sub, anything above to the regular spealers.

Does the sub have it's own amp built in? Does it have inputs from the speakers and outputs back to the speakers... ...or does it work from 2 of the 4 channels from the head unit?

That does not look like the best solder job. Looks like the trace wasn't as hot as the wire. Might snap off pretty easy. That IS the hard part of that particular repair.

Backyard mechanic me, has also just tinned the end of the wire, bent in to a U shape, and clipped that under the protected end of the fuse.

Those piggy back "stak-on" or spade connectors come in a few different configuration. Handy for different space limitations. Not super easy to find, though. Also, for lighting, there should be a wire somewhere behind the dash, that has an orange, three socket end. It's for lights in an...

Cool. Love it.

Let's see that truck.

I always set my timing by ear/feel. The car will tell you where it wants it. Advance until it pings under hard acceleration, then back off until it stops. If that causes a hard start, something else is wrong. Book spec is theoretical.

If the engine is "kicking back", the timing is probably off. Extra volts/amps is allowing the starter to "push through".

That's the old school way.

I used an Actron AcroTach II on my skinny 66 Coronet column. ...what you're not interested in a large bolt, right through a perfect dash pad? ...like I wince at every time I see it, which is far too often.

WPC? Presets for tuner?

Last time one of my cars did this it turned out to be a bad (but looked good) ground cable between the body and the engine block. You can check by using jumper cables between the neg post and any bolt you can get on on the block, head or an accessory mount. It took me a while to figure this...

I've had 38 cars and only had one go bad.

My RK (Exide) is 36 month free replacement and 7 years pro-rated. $165 retail. 2 of the last 3 RK batteries I bought were 5 year and lasted almost 7. The 3rd failed after 2.5 and was replaced free.

Interestingly- A- lost time and date settings but retained radio presets. Took a 65 mile trip today (with the AGM that came out of my 73), and about 15 miles into the trip. B- the door locks started working from the inside switch! Sluggish the first 2 times and then just fine. WTF?

Whadayaknow- The battery was bad. Put it back in and it did the same thing- initially dome light and ODO came on but no start and then several lights flickered, even after key was removed. Put the AGM back in and it started and drove normally... Except the door locks don't work. Not from the...

It had occurred to me that there may have been some sort of spray/protectant on the OEM battery connections that was of course, removed when I installed the new battery. Nothing looked obvious, and I didn't readily notice anything just now when I wire brushed them. Seems odd, that it would have...

What are y'all doin? I've never really had a big issue with it, but my 2015 Renegade failed to start this morning. Battery checked at 12.67v, which I perceived to be good. Closer inspection revealed a pretty good amount of light blue corrosion on both terminal clamps. These are thin brass...

Pulled the trigger. Went to set it in the car last night and noticed there were some puffy spots on the battery tray. Further examination revealed some were filled with white powder. Spent 45 minutes scraping and wire brushing, then tried out a very close match spray can I found that's dang...

I saw that. Looks good. I was never really concerned with having OEM "wear items" like tires, plugs, or the battery.

I've had terrible luck with wal mart brand. None of the last four have made it to their warranty period. The last one was 40% short. I used to have good luck with Interstate but the last two didn't make it to the warranty. I switched to Exide, and the last three have lasted more than their...

Thanks. I've got 2 Schumacher maintainers in the garage and the same brand 10A/2A regular charger. I'm really liking this new 15A as it has a voltage tester and diagnostic codes built in.

The yard sale Schumacher 15A charger I bought last month has an AGM mode. Can you use a "regular" (non-AGM mode) maintainer with an AGM batt? What about the "slow" charge rate on a regular changer?

I've recently had good luck with combo deep cycle/RV batteries lasting at least as long as they are rated, when "normal" batteries seem to be giving up 33% sooner. My 2017 "48 month" combo won't charge over 10 volts and I'm thinking of getting an AGM this time to replace it. The same...