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My opinion would be to get factory/OEM stuff from a 73 and up disk brake car. ...and also the rear wheel cylinders for the same car. I just looked at your OP pics. IMO there's plenty of meat on that hub as is.

There are machines that do this and they are accurate. One of my friends has one. The first thing I'd do is make sure you can get a drum that fits the shoes and backing plate. I have to correct the statement about A body drums. They did NOT stay SBP. 73 and up disk brake cars had LBP rear...

It might be nice to specify what the different "color" pads actually mean. The last time I looked into this, I noted that ceramic pads were available for Mopar sliders but not for the pin type that I have. I do not remember the MFG.

The difference in MC is a "residual valve" not a prop valve. The residual valve also does not necessarily have to be in the MC, it could be in the distribution block.

In the first pic, the coil around the line is almost always for a location that requires that portion of the line to run very close to another part it could rub on, or be pinched between, such as between the inner fender and the frame horn.

Here we go again with whether or not you need to move the perches. I've done it without moving them and it works with no issues, even under hard launch at the 1/8 mile. For the purposes of this thread- the point is that particular axle puts the rear track even with the factory disk brake front...

Just an aside- a 65-67 B body 8 3/4 axle is a great upgrade, is literally a drop in (aside from drive shaft shortening), and actually puts the rear track almost exactly even with a disk brake front track.

Not the case here. Despite only being asked to help 3 or 4 times in over 20 years, she still knows how to pump and hold and say "OK" at the appropriate times without a refresher course. :thankyou:

One of a very few jobs I can't do by myself. I have got them bled enough to drive to friend's hoe by sung a hammer (of all things) and a 4x4 block to wedge the pedal down. They do make a ratcheting tool...

Mine was a factory disk brake car so probably had 10" rears.

Did the same with my 73.

Pin calipers were also used on B body cars. Pics and measurements would help.

rockauto?

Isn't there a reinforcement/stud plate on PB cars? ...and doesn't the booster mount with studs going the other way? I tried to remove that plate from a 68 Valiant once. 70% destroyed it trying and gave up.

As long as the reservoir is sealed (it IS sealed, right?) the inside shouldn't rust. I did paint the outside of my MC when I converted to DOT 5, and it's still real purdy after 7 years. I bought out 4 different Advance Auto stores of DOT 5 fluid when they were on sale "buy one, get one 50%...

be careful with bore size on wheel cylinders when swapping axles or other brake parts. I'd use the size that came on the car. I am 99% convinced Mopar used wheel cylinder/caliper bore size to proportion the system. Changing the ratio can cause "interesting" issues.

Put your O ring between 2 pieces of card stock. The machine needs a flat surface to operate properly. The right thickness for the part in question should make it work- find a thickness that won't let the outline of the part show through.

Just a note- a business can write off the cost of shipping and mailings.

My 2000 Dakota R/T didn't need rear shoes until almost 100,000 miles! Many of those miles were either "spirited" or hauling or towing something. During that time I think I put on three sets of front pads and 2 sets of rotors. I'm glad AJFormS mentioned wheel cylinder sizes as I'm entirely...

It's also a MUCH cleaner operation to change pads vs shoes. But as a performance improvement, very little unless used under extreme conditions like rally racing.

All flare nut wrenches are not equal. My go to is slightly longer than most and grips real well. Not snap on, though.

Most manual brake cars have studs through the firewall and a special bracket that holds them. Most Power brake cars don't have either. I tried removing a stud bracket from a 68 Valiant once. Did NOT go well.

I've seen those seal cups inside the bore, in back of the pistons get cocked from over extension as well. That can cause you not to be able to get the pistons back in far enough. Probably better to disassemble everything and put it back together and then re-bleed unless you can see an obvious...

Once I get everything back together, I like to bang the shoes back and forth with the heels of my hands to help things settle in and center. Agree, look closely at the pistons and those cups. You should be able to remove the rubber cups without exposing the system to air, unless the pistons...

Brake lathes do come up every now and then, but they are PRICEY. About 10-15 years ago, they were cheap. The best deal I've seen in 5 years was $450 but it was a 3 hour one way drive so I passed. I could have had one for $75 in 2002, but had no where to put it.

I always use a #3 Philips with a comfortable handle to bench bleed. I clamp one of the MC ears in a bench vice. I use twist ties to hold the hoses via the bail (if it has one), and I leave the hoses attached wile installing the MC in the car, and then swap them for the metal lines one at a...

6 years with DOT 5 and my MC is still shiny black. Just a tad bit lower pedal/more travel and a tad bit more pressure required. Happy with the switch.

The M/C bore may also be optimized for a booster. This may make pedal operation much more difficult as it is built to have the assist.

I'd be tempted to put the whole K frame, 318 and all into the Duster.

Might be in your best interest to switch to 5 on 4.5. Relatively easy to find a 66/67 B body 8 3/4 or F/M body 8 1/4 that is a virtual drop in.