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Seeing the OP's scoops might help.

I have a friend that swears by the Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel. Not sure what intake he runs it with though. I want to say it's a common Edelbrock performer.

I'll say this- every single Edelbrock carb I've ever owned, including dirty, $50 swap meet ones- ran acceptably upon initial installation with no excessive tuning other than setting mixture and idle speed. I believe I'm up to seven now including 500, 600 and 625 on 318's and 600 and 750 on...

Carb should be fine on that engine. Check that the accelerator pump is working, and adjusted correctly.

Does it stumble?

IIRC they list specifically the carbs that won't accept a choke kit. Now I know why. Thanks.

Hasn't the "rule" for ages been- longer runners = more torque? ...and doesn't more torque eventually equal more power?

This is why I like to use a clear glass fuel filter. The last fuel issue I had turned out to be a metal line rusting out on the inside. The clear filter let me see the particles. Replaced the line from a hose connection to the pump and the problem went away.

I've bent OEM tank seams with a rubber mallet. The repro tank welds don't seem as strong, though.

400 carb has smaller venturi but higher CFM than 360 carb?

2 cents- I have several Edelbrock 500, 650, and 750 AFB style carbs on everything from a 318, to a 440. The manual does say a regulator is recommended, but none of mine have one and all run good, pretty much box stock. The good thing for the OP, is that they are extremely easy to take apart...

Curve of hood is a bit different on Plymouths. There is about 3/8 inch more room. This is just from me eyeballing a 73 RR hood I have installed on a 72 Charger.

71-74 Chargers are notorious for not having much room for even a taller air cleaner. I sold a guy a hood that already had the crossmember cut out for his 440 car with IIRC an RPM intake. His factory hood wouldn't close and he didn't want to cut it.

A FABO or FBBO member is selling OEM chokes in the for sale section.

Do you already have a 4 barrel intake?

The original carb that came on your car when new? I'd keep it. For the hundred bucks you're likely to get for it, vs having the actual original carb for your car? Also, there's not a lot to those carbs. One of the easiest to rebuild ever.

I don't see where variable octane was mentioned. Most stations had different grades of fuel and you could select regular, super, or premium each with a higher octane rating than the last. They all had different names for each. IIRC Sunoco was 220, 240, 260. Some stations had different pups...

Retrofit EFI may or may not be for the weak of constitution. I Finally Did It.....EFI Pro Flo 4. Edelbrock There seems to be more big block talk over on the B body side, as more of those cars came with them.

The big blocks were discontinued in 1978, so none were ever made with EFI from the factory. You can get aftermarket intakes with injector bungs, though.

That looks like a lot of corrosion. Soak and scrub. Ugh. I'd blow air/cleaner through the passages, esp the pump squirters.

DL the instructions but I'd hold off on shelling out for the kit. None of the six I've opened up to clean have needed anything other than a cleaning, and all of the gaskets came off without tearing.

My car needs the choke, even in 90+ degree FL.

Looks like you got the throttle adapter too. ...and a choke. That might come in handy in WI.

I once got a 64 jeep six cyl to run on 3 shots of Everclear in the sediment bowl. The bowl was plugged and the owner didn't know anything about cars, and also had no gas can.

If you have swap meets (or when they start up again), you can get used Eddy 500/600/625 for $100 or less. In the past 10 years I've bought 6 of them. The most expensive one was $75. All bolted on and ran fine with minor adjustment except one that had a clogged accelerator pump squirter, which...

I wish I had 50 cents for every time I read "you will never see a deal like this again...".

Not that I'm aware of. That looks just like the one on my 73 Satellite. Inside the outlet nipple is a brass shuttle valve that is supposed to allow gases out and prevent liquids in. Mine stuck causing pressure to build up during driving which could literally blow the gas cap out of my hand...

Agree- unless you have a vacuum leak, you should be able to adjust the distributor advance and the idle speed/mixture to get a reasonable 700-800 idle sped. Might as well hook up a vacuum gauge while you're at it, even a temporary one will help.

I had the same experience with holley based carbs- had to adjust somewhere between every third day or every time I the drove the car. I now have several Carter/Edelbrocks and they all ran either as I bought them, including most from swap meets, or after a good cleaning and one idle adjust.

I was gonna suggest barrel nutting (or welding if available), some all-thread (or part of a bolt) to the end.