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I got a 75 Dart Sport with /6 and big bolt disc and big bolt 7 1/4" rear...go figure...lol

In 73 Mopar started standardizing a lot of stuff that was different on A bodies than B or E bodies. Big bolt pattern disc brakes on A bodes therefore use the same upper and lower ball joints as B Bodies. They also use the same rotors, calipers and caliper brackets. There may be small differences...

Depends on the motor...I pulled mine out from the top on a slant 6 car. Small block? Pull the column, remove driver side exhaust manifold, detach pass side exhaust, loosen motor mounts, pull distributor, remove power str pump and brackets, raise engine with block of wood under the pan.

Which center link will you be using - 72 and back or 73 and up? Or to put it another way, try to use all the parts from similar years in the rest of the steering linkage. 72 and back mount the pitman and idler with the tapered stud in one orientation - pointing up; 73 and up uses the opposite...

20 - 1 is the way to go. 16 - 1 is a bit tough to live with for a cruiser. And I don't know of any Formula S cars that came with a 16 - 1. The one I drove and wrenched on, a 68 383 S definitely did not have one; nor would you want one with the additional weight in the front of the car. 16-1...

Mancini sells shims that go between the lower ball joint and the spindle that help get back that negative camber you're looking for. I've fought the same issues myself and have yet to try the shims but I understand they're supposed to help. Some sort of hardened washer, no idea how think they...

A word of advice about using K7103's - I had to really wail on those UCA cam nuts to get the cams to stay in place. Because of the extreme angles you can put the control arm in if you use those bushings they may have a tendency to move unless the nuts are 100% good and real tight. I have...

On the Upper BJ an 1/2 " impact wrench and a real 60 gallon air compressor usually will do the trick. The repeated blows from the impact have a way of working the BJs free. I have had to use a BF piece of pipe though in the past, as well as heat. Make sure someone didn't tack weld it to the arm...

I've done many many uca bushings in a 6" bench vise. Just make sure the shells are really clean and support the area around the bushing well. I bead blast them clean first. A little WD-40 helps, too. I use pieces of pipe that cradle around the area to distribute the load. I also press them in...

A few things you have to keep in mind. The 75 could be a large bolt pattern car whereas your 71 is probably a small bolt pattern car. If you do not want to change from the rims/tires you are using now I would recommend only using the K frame. BUT - if the 75 is a disc brake car this would be a...

You will have to pull the pitman arm. Unless you have a real garage hoist I would not attempt it on my back on ramps - pull the box and do it on a bench. There's two seals down there - a lightweight one to keep dirt out, and a serious one that's quite a ways in the bore. IIRC there's also a...

Bounce the front end while parked. If you hear the UCA bushings creak the cam bolts aren't tight enough. I usually weld around the K frame LCA pivot tubes, broken or not, just to reinforce the area. I MIG weld a bead completely around them and then grind it back til it's the same height as...

Lind of hard to tell from your pic, but does the pitman arm stud point in the same direction as the one on the idler arm? 72 and back the studs face up, 73 and forward they face down. Wondering if there's a mix and match going on...(?)

You could cobble up your own bumper and spring pretty easily. Many of those bumpers are falling apart and the spring just has a loop on one end and a slight bend on the other to make it stay in the hole. I bet if you wrapped duct tape around where the bumper would go it would do the job.

Here ya go...

Or else remove the rubber insides and take a sawzall or hacksaw blade to the inside just enough to split the metal bushing sleeve. Lots of ways to skin a cat....

Depends on the make of the sway bar. Addco bars have a u shaped bracket that goes on the bottom of the tubes. The bushings and brackets attach to that and the bracket is held to the axle tube by some u bolts. Find out who made the bar and start searching the Internet.

This is a picture of Ari440's ride on Moparts, with a 71 Duster. These might be NMW tow tabs. NMW, way back in the day, sold engine stands, tow bars and tabs, freewheeling bolt on hubs so you did not have to pull the driveshaft, and other goodies. I think they went out of business a long time...

You can use a ball joint fork to pry the coupler off the steering box splines. Just be sure to take out the big roll pin first.

There are TWO differences between a power and non power column. The adapter solves both problems. Not only is the power column shorter but the coupler part that connects to the power str box is different - the spline diameter is smaller than on a manual column - it's too small to fit. The...

Oh, and the nuts for the strut - the ones that hold the strut to the K frame with the big washers between the strut rod bushings, not the ones on the LCA. While the LCA is off the K frame count on replacing the LCA bushings. As well as the big donut strut rod bushings.

Push out the roll pin in the coupler and use a tie rod fork to pry back the coupler off the splines. On T bars - DO NOT LOOSEN THE TENSION ON THEM AT FIRST. Loosen the nuts off the LCA pins thru the K frame first. The tension on the t bars will keep the pins from spinning in the bushings. Then...

Moog K7103....go over to Mopar Action's web site for some slick instructions on how to get even more + caster out of them. Pictures explain it better than I can.

Not to bust chops, but the correct places to make your measurements are from the 'blade' in the middle of the LCA and then the bottom of the lower BJ. There should be 1" to 1 1/2" difference, meaning the bottom of the LBJ should be 1 to 1 1/2 inches lower than the 'blade' . The Blade is that...

Curious - how far in are the T bar adjusting bolts? As others have said, if you don't put the t bars back into the rear sockets with the LCA's somewhat drooped way down, disconnected from the upper a arms you may never have enough adjustment left in the T bars in order to get them up to tension...

Ditto, tack weld, another arm, or...I think I've seen weld on collars with pre-cut threads - remove the old collar with a cut off wheel and weld on new. In dirt car / roundy round catalogs like Speedway and the like. BTW, the arms from the factory had NO threads. The new ball joint would cut the...

So long as you are buying Moog you're good to go. And there are better sleeves available, from a Diplomat or 5th Avenue. They are bigger in the middle and narrower at the ends where they are threaded for the tie rods. The thicker sleeves deflect less while cornering. I think the 73 style tie...

If you are rebuilding the steering BOX you need a couple specialized tools. The FSM shows using an OLD style weight gauge to set the drag on the torrington thrust bearings that was also used to test the distributor shaft deflection on a points-type distributor. I use a digital fish weighing...

Put the washer inside the shell of the LCA bushing outer housing. Then take an air chisel and fold over the outer edges of the lca bushing shell (the lip that keeps the bushing from pressing all the way thru the lca) in towards the center of the shell, thereby capturing the the washer. Then you...

Google them or ask on Moparts...you might be surprised...