Search results for query: *

The issue with vacuum is more to do with how much you have at idle, and at cruise, not so much with accessories using some of the vacuum. Bigger cams affect the amount of vacuum the engine will make. Stock motors with stock cams typically make between 15" to 19" of vacuum, and brake boosters are...

No idea on the pushrod ends...

I have 2 manual disc cars, both stock A bodies, and both stop fine. I have no trouble locking them up if need be. I think power brakes are overkill until you get up around 4000 pounds or more. More room in the engine bay w/o the booster, no worrying about not having enough vacuum to work the...

Rock Auto has a TON of clearance brake parts - OE stuff too, like American made Wagner, etc. I get e-mails every now and them saying they are clearing out certain stuff and brake hardware I see a LOT. If you have a particular car of yours stored in their database they will send you e-mails when...

Spindles on F, M and J bodies (Aspens, Dippys, Miradas) aren't the same as A bodies - they might work, but aren't the same. Rotors are, though...

Don't adjust anything until you make sure everything is properly connected from one end of the linkage to the other. If a lock nut got loose look for an indentation on the part it clamped down on and use that as a start to get everything tightened back down.

Yup - boots and seals are available.

Different size if the car is a stick or an auto but not manual vs power. Now what is different is how they attach the master to the pedal depending if its power or manual brakes.

You can ditch the booster and just use the same master cylinder thats on the booster now. But you will need a manual disc brae pushrod as the pushrod set up on the power booster is way different. Either one from a non power booster a body or an adjustable push rod from Mancini.

It can all be done with factory parts. I have a set of 73 A body disc spindles, upper a arms, cal bkts and disc brake prop valve for same in the Mech Parts section. You supply the rotors, bearings, calipers, hoses from your local parts store. A big bolt A body rear axle can usually be had from...

Ditto on the rebuild. Wheel cylinders, springs and hoses, all 4 corners. Not worth chancing it on iffy parts. Brakleen will only help the brakes grab better, but it sounds like you've got too much grab. The piece of mind is worth it, especially in a panic situation.

Need to mount up the new master to the firewall, put the brake pedal in the approximate position and measure the distance. And yes you will need a new pushrod. A factory pushrod from another B body may work, or you could get an adjustable one.Need to now the length for the new set up.

I believe the same valve was used from at least 1970 thru 1975 on disc brake a bodies - an all brass one like in the very first picture. Around 75-76 they started phasing in a cast iron version with a different layout. I pulled the attached vale off a 75 Swinger with sliding calipers. It looks...

That valve combo ain't it - there is only ONE valve down on the frame rail. That set up looks like some universal deal . Ain't saying it won't work, but that's not a stock set up. The same valve was used from at least 1970 thru 1975 - 76. Around 75-76 they went to a cast iron one similar to what...

You need a disc brake master cyl. AFAIK there is no such thing as a power brake master cyl, but there are differences between a disc brake master and a manual brake master. You also need a proportioning valve with disc brakes. It replaces the simple distribution block on manual brakes. Try to...

That's the problem, guys chuck the rotors thinking the new ones will have the HUBS already attached to them...wrong..

Unbolt the brackets from the firewall and replace with a master of the same type of brakes as you already have (drum brake master or disc brake mater). It bolts right to the firewall. You will need the correct master cylinder push rod. PM me if you need one.

Master from 73-76 Manual disc A body works...