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Looks good! Have you figured out what the antisquat is yet? Also, what springs were you running before?

I'm tuned.. lets see.

Wow.. I bet those are heavy. How much do they weigh by the way? Do you know?

I would be glad to do it. I Work at a body shop Where I can do the install. I do a lot of fabrication on my own projects. I am on the Freelance list For one National Magazine currently, and am trying to get on others. The closest thing I have to an explanatory article that I can show you right...

Yeah! And if you are accelerating out of it most of the weight transfers to the rear anyway. I have 195's on all four corners right now and I can go down these twisty TN roads WELL over the posted limit.. I can hardly wait until I get my Sticky 17's on.

The one I'm working on is good looking. Mostly that is just because I can't stand my stuff looking like crap. It is designed to perform. I Won't say much more right now.. But I'm working on it. The hardest part is the weird stepped taper that Mopar uses on their LCA's.

Actually the only thing affected by the shock placement angle is the efficiency of the shocks and springs. At any angle less than 90 you lose effectiveness due to the triangulation of the force vectors. You are better off just putting the correct spring rate on the correct dampers as tilting...

Swaybars and/or torsion bars are the most cost effective things you can do for handling. I don't have any recommendations for gearing. Welcome To FABO!!

Does anyone know where I can get the Mopar/Direct connection "handling line" chart? Like the one in the background of this picture I have looked all over and I can't find it! any help would be appreciated!

Yep. I know.. I've been watching that thread as well. That is why I mentioned it.

Nice! But the front is sitting a little high.. haha

Then that is probably your problem. If you want to make sure measure from the center to the center of the front and rear spring mounts and compare the measurements.

it should be right at 43" if the springs haven't been relocated. You can measure at the back of the perches. and it should go around the pumpkin.

That is probably your problem then, Can you measure the width from center to center of the perches?

When the rear was put in were new perches welded on? or did they just pry the leaves apart? I have heard of a couple of people doing this, though it isn't the greatest way to do it. If you look from the back do they springs bow out in the middle?

Yeah that could be part of the problem. Also, is the rear original to the car or has it been swapped out?

Yes and no.. you will have some differences in geometry but for the most part no. it doesn't matter.

Do like rumblefish suggested. Even 4 holes on one inch vertical spacing will sow you VERY quickly which direction you will want to be going. I looked around for a diagram. But I hadn't found anything online. Just in my books. Side note :The set-up is different for a street car vs a race car and...

Actually... Neither. Usually it should be placed 10-15" off the ground. Higher will give you more anti-squat, lower less. And the spring eye height should be mostly level. If you make both the front and the rear adjustable you can use the front height to get it into the general area then the...

If you have time Could you get the measurements for all the heights of the mounting points in relation to the axle center-line? At ride height? Because I am interested in seeing what kind of handling characteristics this will have. Great work! Looks amazing!

I second that! The first thing I am going to do when I build my shop is pour a surface plate.

By "stock based" I mean nothing like a fancy new k-frame, or new suspension geometry such as the alterkation, though It would be interesting to see the match-up. Although I am working on a set-up that is like that... So that will be up for all challengers. Well, Actually it will be Mostly used...

That looks awesome! Did you get the whole upgrade autox? As far as cost to benifit... I will have about $700 into my suspension and brakes soon. And I'd put it up against any stock based system. Give me a couple months to get everything finished though. Not that just anybody could do the stuff...

Yeah it sounds like the Panhard bar is set wrong.. Adjust it so the tires are even, Make sure it is level and see how you like it. As far as which holes... I believe the higher the bar is off the ground is, the less it will roll, but it will be a little more squirmy. Not completely sure though...

Baddart is right. That is a ladderbar setup and other than the panhard rod being mounted on an angle I can't see anything weird. What are the problems you are having? rattles and squeaks are causes by the rod-ends. which you cant fix unless you change to something else. The panhard bar will...

True.. I mostly just suggested lubricating it to see if that was the problem. but a good grease should help.

you can twist it 1/4 turn? or you can move it like up and down? is it sloppy? what kind of rod ends did he use? it doesn't sound like they are sealed. the best ones are Teflon, nylon or delrin sealed and wont let dirt or crud in. This is especially important on a street driven car. Did he adjust...

It sounds to me like a bushing is binding. Rubber suspension components are designed to twist for the suspension movement. What about greasing the bushings.. That way you will know for sure if they are binding or not. do the bushings Squish when you tighten the bolts?

Nowhere close... But if you can explain the problems I might be able to help. and some more info about the 4-link in question would be helpful.

Ok.. Gotcha...