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A buddy of mine did a disc brake swap and could not get the brakes to bleed correctly. One look showed the bleeders facing down. Flipped them side to side and all was right. Like Demonracer said: topside.

I have run small bolt 14x6 rallyes and 14x5.5 factory steelies on the scarebird setup with no clearance issues.

I've done scarebird conversions on 2 of my Valiants. One more to do.

I have used the scarebird setup on two cars now. The beauty of this kit is that the front suspension doesn't have to be torn down.

My opinion, too. My Scamp is power disc and my '63 is manual disc with a 15/16" bore master for a '73 Duster. Like the pedal feel better in the '63.

That issue might have resolved by Scarebird in their contouring process of the calipers. I'm running factory 14x5.5 steelies with no problems. Being able to purchase predrilled rotors is a nice option for anyone nervous about drilling their own rotors and getting them right.

Local auto parts store usually offer free tool rentals such as brake tool kits. I use them for jobs I don't do all the time such as bearing race removal and install.

If I was going with 4.5 bolt pattern, that's the only way to go. I went Scarebird to keep my 4" bp.

In reference to the bearings, you use your existing hubs and wheel bearings. I like the kit because I had done a complete suspension rebuild earlier in the season, so none of that work was lost. All of these brake conversions are like shocks or tires. Many choices to pick from. Scarebird just...

First time that I had to give it a good teat was jumping in to a right turn lane at 60 mph. Brought me down straight and to a safe speed to make the turn. That sold me on the system. Bruce

I bought the complete kit from Scarebird. Check their website. It includes loaded calipers that have a nub ground down to fit. Hoses and clips, rotors drilled for the 5x4 pattern. That is what held me back in the past because they would supply you with a paper template to drill the holes. The...

I used Scarebird.

Scarebird now sells the rotors drilled for the 5x4 pattern.

I've got the Scarebird kit in my '72 Scamp. I just installed a set of 14" by 5 1/2" wide stock steelies. No issues. Scarebird contours the calipers. I don't think the stock 14" rallyes work though. Check their website to be sure. Gave the brakes a good test on the way home Saturday from Mopars...

I too went with the scarebird setup. Big plus is the suspension doesn't have to be broke down. I had already rebuilt the front end before I decided to go with discs. I did go with longer studs, but I don't know if that was really necessary. The thickness of the rotor is close to the thickness of...

Check with member whitepunkonnitro .

Kit DBK6272 is for B body and E body cars. Using 73-76 A body big ball joint uca's might solve the problem. Kit DBK6272A is what you need for the '72.

Point of information. Raybestos sells a m/c repair kit that includes the pushrod and retention ring. MK338 is the part number. Just have to knock off the piston to use the rod and retention ring. Cost is under $20.

I bought the calipers through Scarebird. There is a "bump" on the caliper body that needs to be ground off. Scarebird does that on the ones they offer. I did have to grind a very small amount of casting flash off of my spindles where they meet the calipers. No spacers needed, just longer wheel...

I'm running 15x7 rallye wheels.

x2 Just did the Scarebird conversion last Thursday on my '72 Scamp. I had mocked up everything on a spare set of spindles and hubs. Used an OEM prop valve I bought from a fellow FABO member. Very pleased with the kit and ease of installation.

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Coat the contact area of the axle flange with anti seize. Never a stuck drum again.

Thanks for the help..

Anyone??

Greetings all. A few questions: 1. Will the pushrod from a single pot m/c ('65 Valiant) be used in a dual pot m/c? 2. If so, is it held in the same as a dual m/c? The rubber retaining ring? 3. Anyone know the length from the back of the single m/c to the center of the pedal hole...

The rubber gasket inside the lid tells you what side should face the fluid. Kinda like "green side up".

If you have a consistent solid pedal with the truck not running and no pedal with it running, it sure sounds like the booster.

Another thing to try is, rapid pumping of the brakes while the truck is running. If it starts to stumble, bad booster/vacuum leak.

Are you getting vacuum to the booster? Check your vacuum source on the engine, next check your vacuum at the entry point to the booster. Could be the hose collapsing. If all good to there, look at the booster. I've seen a m/c leak fluid into the booster. Goofs up the function of the booster.