Search results for query: *

If one was punch through it would be not running smooth. That condition was what was wrong with the car when I bought it when I was 19 and it was 1.5 years old. Guy selling it probably thought he broke the engine and was selling it cheap. Turned out to be push rod thru a rocker. When I had...

Haven't pulled the valve cover when hot but did when cold and checked torque on the rocker arm shaft mounting bolts. Didn't see anything unusual. Did try wiggling the rockers. Earlier this summer I installed all new rockers and shaft on that side. Haven't done other side yet. Did it because...

I have this noise that just started. It's a high pitched clicking noise like I haven't heard before at idle. It's coming out of the driver's side valve cover breather. If you cover up the breather with your hands you don't hear it. It starts after the engine starts to warm up. Cold the...

In reference to oil viscosity The 1967 Dodge Service manual oil viscosity recommendations are attached in the screen grab file from the service manual. I only use the car spring thru summer to early fall.

They have the engine apart and suppose to take photos for me. #2 cylinder has bad rod bearing plus two other rod bearings are showing wear. They think some of the bearing material from #2 got carried over to those other two rod bears causing the wear. They said there is also a scratch mark on...

I've noticed it knocks for a short time when started then stops when oil pressure comes up then is fine while idling. Well it's in the shop and they will probably have the engine out next week. Once the engine builder gets it apart I should know what's up.

Rebuild was .030 bore with new cast pistons, rings, bearings, new cam, new lifters, valve job etc. I'm leaning toward piston slap since #2 doesn't have the vertical lines around the entire cylinder.

Well the guy from the engine rebuilder stopped by and listened to the engine. He thinks it's piston slap. Far as I can tell from what I have read its' either that or rod knock. Took a look inside the cylinder thru the plug hole to see what I could see on the cylinder walls. Some vertical...

Place who rebuilt the engine is working on having someone stop by after work on 4/28/16 to check out the noise. It has been ~10,000 miles and 5+ years but they have taken some positive actions so I'll see what they say after seeing it.

It was bored .30 over with new pistons. Just got off the phone with the rebuilder. Sent them an audio file of the noise for them to listen to it. They will call back after listening to the file. Discussing the noise again with them it's sounding like it is piston slap. Rod bearing he said...

When I changed the lifters all the bottoms had normal wear and still looked like they should. My understanding is if the bottoms of the lifters look normal the lobes should be ok. Missing and light knocking happens at = or >2000rpm. I took a day off work to check the valve springs and do the...

One thing that's been rattling around in my head is the tapping fuel pump, tapping at the front of the passenger side head and the lifters on the passenger side clacking all started close to the same time. keep wondering if it's not coincidence but some root cause.

Don't know if it related but the engine has a miss when running at >=2000 rpms parked when I'm checking the noise. When the lifters on the passenger side were clacking it was running rough.

I suppose it is good considering the spec pressure from the Dodge service manual was with regular oil not synthetic.

It is synthetic ZRod Amsoil not regular 20W50. Didn't know how 10W30 synthetic would get along with a vintage engine since it flows easier than regular 10W30. For about 40,000 miles before the rebuild I had a different cam and Rhoads lifters which at the time required 20W50, 40 or 50 weight...

Good point. Didn't inspect the springs while I had the valve cover off but it would be an easier fix than a rod. They are the original. Have to pull the cover back off and check. Having never seen a cracked or broken compressed spring I assume it's obvious. I was surprised they didn't...

Haven't lost any screws down the carb. Don't know the head casting number but they are the stock ones on a 67 GTS. Started making the noises sometime after last car show last fall. I had mentioned to a fell Mopar guy I've had a slight tic in a lifter, very minor, on the driver's side for...

So the noise is not the rocker that had the wear different than the rest. Changed it and the noise is still there. Light knocking noise that I can feel in a wood rod I was using to listen on the head. From what I read light knocking noise at constant rpm is a connecting rod noise. Have to...

So after the winter working on the lifters, fuel pump and master cylinder I went for a test ride today. Although the loud tapping is gone and not at the fuel pump anymore the noise is still there >or = to 2000rpm. Only in the front part of the passenger side head. Noise decreases as you move...

My 67 GTS 383 has a front axel weight of 1900+. Lost the paper from the truck scale but it was a little over 1900. I weighed it to check my choice of new torsion bars. I read a good estimate for the spring rate is 10% of the front axel rate and the 1" bars were 190# spring rate.

When I needed new torsion bars for my 383 dart the advise I got here on the forum was at least 1" bars. I bought them from Firm Feel and it worked out good. Car is used for street, shows and cruise nights. I also found an engineering web site that sells some front suspension parts they...

EUREKA!! After replacing the fuel pump the loud ticking noise is gone at >1800 rpm. Four year old fuel pump must have been one from China with a low quality spring. Service manual said for fuel pump noise weak or broken spring. I'm thinking cheap spring got weak after 4 years and < 10,000...

Existing cam new lifters. Yes broke them in as per manufacturer. Thats when i noticed the one noise was still there which becomes obvious around 1800-2000 rpm.

So pumps aren't expensive so i figure I'll put a new one on. So after its together again if it's still making the noise any suggestions on steps to diagnose it?

It's not the rod. The machined chamfer is still on the edge of the ends. Could it be the pump?

Anyone know what the length should be for the rod that rides the cam lobe for the fuel pump? I wasn't finding it in the service manual.

Thank you. Looks like I need to pull and check the rod. Have to check paperwork on the rebuild 5 years ago and see if they replaced it or used the original. Check rebuild paperwork. It's the original rod.

Thanks. Learned something.

My understanding is a bad bearing is a knocking sound like hammer on block. This is higher frequency tapping like loud lifter. Maybe I didn't explain it correctly in the original post. Noises can be hard to describe but it's loudest around the fuel pump area.

Thanks for the input I can check that. I didn't say in the post that this just started happening.