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I have a 10 x 10 shelter logic shed. Its seen 2 Wisconsin winters and showing some wear. Then again I lag screwed it to a 2 x 6 construction wood floor so its got a sturdy base. I bought this to throw some FAMILY CRAP that has been laying around the shop FOREVER. I could care LESS about this...

To paint a car is expensive, paint and bodywork supplies are through the roof. All body panels that require body work need to be repainted. They don’t do touch ups anymore cause all automotive paints are water based and original paint is not.

The problem with buying something like that is the condition and your inexperience with owning and maintaining one. Unless you buy from an auction of a going out of business sale, I would spend the coin and buy used one from a dealer and avoid the headaches of unknown repairs.

I’m lost for words.

Fire starters, but they look cool. The original “fly eye” is the one to have made by Stelling. Good luck finding one. Your better off going with a 14 inch K&N.

First thing I would do is add ventilation fans to the vents you have. You could also add a ridge vent. DIY stores sell these fans as attic fans. There is an insulation blanket that is made for buildings like that. It fits right to the roof around the trusses. If you drop a ceiling and add...

You lucky dog.

My biggest concern is that it coats evenly and doesn’t look striped. Metal doors and oil based paint. I’ve already painted 4 sheets of plywood with that paint and its got to look better than rolling it on like I did with the plywood.

How do they work for big panels? I have 2 doors to paint.

Nothing a 6 inch holesaw and a bag of mortar can’t fix.

I’m just speaking from hindsight of a 45 year career as a tool and die/mold maker. I seldom use a ready reference anymore and I don’t own the other book. If there is something that stumps me, I use machinery’s hand book. I first turned handcranks on a Bridgeport at 8 years old in my dads...

This is the ready reference. These babies are getting expensive, I’d try to find one used. This looks good also and is cheap.

The machinist ready reference is good for quick answer on stuff including speeds and feeds.

It is but its deep. I on the other hand have read it cover to cover twice. The only thing I could not find in it is info on orings.

Machining for dummies looks good and cheap. Most important thing is learning your materials and their cutting speeds and how to calculate your cutter speeds. Machinist ready reference is a good book. Machinery’s hand book goes in deep but new it is expensive. The best thing to do is take...

I thought friends shared LMAO.

Do you have a phone number or email address?

Good move with the raised concrete wall around the perimeter. Definitely they are always too small once have everything in them, but you like me, your dedicated to the size you have the floor poured. I bought mine, 40 x 30x 14 with a 10 x 14 door prebuilt in a condo type setting of storage...

Killer idea.

I believe the benefit you are getting is from bubbles in the rap. If I were building this I would put the radiant rap on the inside which would also act as a vapor barrier and tyvek the outside which breaths. Any and all insulating improvements will pay off as time goes buy and with the...

As you can see the ones with reflectors cast shadows on the ceiling, ones without do not.

With reflectors hanging down about 7 inches. I got these off the old florescent lights. They are easy to find if you look for them on garbage day. Also led’s are bright right away in cold temperatures. I have cold weather florescent in my other hobby shop and it takes a while for them to heat up...

Those are 9000 lumen lights up just over 10 feet by the way. With your building, your better off with 2 rows of them with a reflector or reflective ceiling.

Just had my first one go bad after 4 years. Barrina brand on Amazon, for $19 a light, 8 footers you can’t go wrong. Way more cost effective than florescent in my opinion. Thats a $100 plus florescent light they replaced. I tossed over 30 florescent lights cause 1/2 the ballasts were bad...

Agreed, I build with deck screws and a screw gun just for the fact that its not permanent. I can take it apart to modify it and reuse all old materials if it suits the change. Buy good quality screws, not dry wall screws that are prone to pop the heads off.

This is my hobby shop with 10 1/2 ft. Ceiling and my 2 tallest machine tools. The mill is 7 ft. And the engraving machine is 8 ft. Pardon my mess, I’m painting the outside. My question is how big your fab room is going to be and how are you going to ventilate it. Metal working generates smoke...

I have used a Mac flaring tool. Works great on steel line. Cannot see it being a problem with coated line. You have to make a few practice flares to get a good double flare, but once you have it down its an awesome tool.

On a cautious note, always wear a respirator when blasting with any media. Nasty stuff in slag and silica is a carcinogen as well.

What is copper slag? Coal slag is shiny black, looks like chips of glass and and that hard.

I use fresh media only. I find that used media does not work as well. I also do not blast cast aluminum as it takes off the outer casting surface and it’s porous underneath. For steel which is pretty much all I blast, I use coal slag. Its way cheaper than aluminum oxide and work as well, maybe...