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My 10 sec Dart lol. Only car I’ve ever had on a track. So it’s not only the slowest, but also the fastest I’ve ever had hahaa.

Seems like the lower rpm I shift the 417/W2, the slower the car goes. I have to shift somewhere close to 7K for optimal ET.

It’s tough to do!

I typically run around 19 psi with 1.4x 60’ on my radials. But that’s not always the case at every track, or every lane even! Last week I ran 1.4’s in the left lane and 1.7’s in the right lane at this particular track and I couldn’t figure out what prep they did to make the lanes so different...

Mine rubbed on the very front lower part of the wheel opening. I had about a fingers worth of clearance and it did fine until I ran it up to about 120 one time and it was leaving a cloud of smoke behind me and the smell of rubber was in the air. It chewed a pretty deep groove in the outer-most...

Tell that to my chewed up tire that was rubbing at high speed

Oh yeah mis-read that! Load rating! Duh!

That will all depend on whether we’re talking corrected hp numbers and such. If I take my time slip, plug it into the famous Wallace racing calculator and correct for the DA that day to sea level, my numbers come out to 600 hp. But that’s at sea level with that combination. Actual horsepower...

Ouch!!! I just checked and mine are SFI rated. I paid $1600 for all 4.

No, that’s MY motor lol! Almost exactly! 11:1, solid roller .645 lift, 266/272 dur @ .050, Victor W2, 950 HP

But they do grow. My 30” radials will grow another 1” or so in height on the top end. To the OP, don’t know what you are running but if you have something that’s not a crazy high horsepower machine, you won’t have problems. My slicks have rubbed but it’s usually when I’m turning hard with...

I’ve never had anyone check my wheels. Mine do have SFI rating sticker on the inside IIRC and they are not $1500+ each. Tech has checked belts, battery tie down, helmet, and coolant overflow. I’ve never been checked for anything other than that but I don’t race at the strictest places either...

Rewired mine with EZ Wire and it wasn’t near as bad as I thought it would be. Plus it was cheap compared to other kits and I built all the required relays in which isn’t hard either. Everything needs to be stripped out of the interior but it’s been nice having a peace of mind with updated wiring.

Thanks! It’s a 340/417 with W2 heads. Beau at Bergeron Racing Transmissions built the 200-4R. Here is the thread 200-4R Behind a 340 and Reid Bellhousing Build

Recap from the weekend.

That’s the only downer about the whole deal. No money at all.

Thanks everyone! Turned out to be a great weekend and nothing broke. Can’t ask for more than that.

Here’s the pass

Considering I was laying down .800+ reaction times all day and didn’t dial it down until the last few runs, I was fortunate to have made the best combination pass I’ve ever had for the big W. MT 315 radial pros

A local dragway that had been shut down for years re-opened this past weekend. I grew up on a farm not far from there so this place is in my childhood memories. I entered into the street tire class and round after round kept knocking them out. But I had no idea what I was running at a full pass...

340 Stroker with W2 heads putting about 525-550 at the wheels in mine. It’s all about the heads. Without decent flowing heads, you won’t get there.

With a bigger tire in back AND if you’re still running drums in back, you need at the minimum a proportioning valve. An adjustable proportioning valve would be even better. If you get and adjustable, take her to a dirt road and start applying the brakes. Adjust it until you start getting even...

Yes that will move the tire in just a hair and will be fine.

These were the 15x4’s I had with the stock style suspension. 1.625” backspacing.

I figured you’d need it. Otherwise you’ll be using race fuel to stroll around town $$$$. My motor was 13.9:1 when I bought it and was on my way to converting to E85 when the engine started having problems. Then rebuilt it and lowered the compression for 91 octane. I’m still curious how it would...

Glad to see you’re making progress on this one! Hard to believe it’s been 3 years already! Old motor was strong. This one sounds like it will be even better. With that CR, I assume you’re going to stick with E85? I know you said you street drive it.

Believe it or not, your mph won’t change much from traction loss. You can either spin off the line or hook and your mph will be nearly identical. The only thing that really changes is your ET. That’s the beauty of the track is that your mph will always tell you the power you are actually making...

Wallace calculator says that if the total weight is 3375 with you in it, running 102 mph trap speed, that’s putting 258 hp down at the wheels. Assume 20% drivetrain loss, that’s 310 hp at the crank.

I think it’s one part of multiple things. I doubt it’s the only part of your issue.

And yes get a set of slicks or radials. You’ll be fighting those street tires for any decent 60’.