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You can measure the pinion shaft. If it’s a 741 it would be 1 3/8”, 742 had a 1 3/4” shaft.

The 657 case is actually the precursor to the 741 case, and if it is indeed a 4:10 gear in that case, that would certainly be an anomaly. Which would lead me to believe the above comments that the housing, axles and center section came from a truck, tractor or some other industrial application...

If you’re using a 904 slip joint trans with your 8 3/4”, I can measure my driveshaft when I get home. It’s out of the car and on the shelf.

You can grease it up a little, and I would probably put it in the crank register first.

And the spline count needs to match the trans. Early 904’s have a unique spline count, 19 I think, and they will only work with compatible converters.

Yes, the converter is neutral balanced. Yes, you need an offset balanced flex plate or the weight set and weld them on. Yes, you will need an annular ring because of the front snout size difference. Check the inside diameter of the magnum crankshaft and report to member “CharlieS”, he makes...

Chances are 100% that if it’s original that it didn’t come with the 4:10, as that was not an available option in an A body

43” perch centers, and the splitter block for the pre-70 housing is on the hump of the center, 70 and later would be down on the drivers side tube some.

I was just pokin him a little…all in good spirit!

But……you posted #19!!

If you want to do a little searching, you can change the 3 gear planetary to a 4 gear by using an A-995 planetary setup, and also get the benefit of the lower 1st to 2nd gear ratio. You will need the planetary and the matching shaft, I bought mine from a local trans shop for $50. You can also...

Not to mention the 657, which is the precursor to the 741. Yep, the same 657 responsible for all those neutral drops from the push button automatic max wedge cars. And, say what you will, but the keywayed drums of the early cars were a pretty stout unit as well. Of course, most passenger cars...

Truck perches are on the top of the housing because the rear end hangs from the leafs, it doesn’t sit on them like cars do. That would be the only difference besides the location of the splitter block for the brake lines. I have a truck housing here that’s going into my plow truck this spring, I...

Shhh, you’re giving away my secret of finding Suregrip 8 3/4” 3:55’s and 4:10’s in old 4WD Dodge trucks from the mid 70’s. Next thing you know you’ll be telling them to check the C bodies too, especially the 68-70’s, for those 742 case Suregrip’s with 2:94’s that go for cheap.

Let’s clear up some misinformation here…. The last year for an 8 3/4” in an A body was 1972 1973 and later cars could have a 7 1/4” with small bolt or large bolt, small bolt for drum brakes up front, large bolt for disc brakes. High performance A bodies in 1973 and later came with disc brakes...

All 8 3/4” axles are 30 spline, so your reference to the 10 spline count is in the yoke, which has no bearing on your axle change. I doubt it’s a 10 spline yoke anyway on a 741 case. Changing to BBP axles is as easy as buying the axles with the correct offset to use BBP 10” brakes. What you use...

Since there were no large bolt A body 8 3/4”, I would say that the offset of the aftermarket large bolt axles are made to accomodate the offset of B body brakes, making them slightly wider at the flange. Now, the front track of a 74 and later A body is wider, so I assume trust the rear was...

so much so that Chrysler made the 7 1/4” Suregrip standard equipment behind all 4 speed cars in 66

The 8 3/4” was only standard equipment only on the 383 cars in 67, it was an option on all others. Not until 68 did it become standard equipment with a small block, and only on 340 cars.

Myself, I would stick with the drum brakes, as mentioned above, the fronts do 70% of the braking. You will have close to $1k into buying a clutch style SG unit, big bolt axles, and either 10” or 11” bog bolt drums, backing plates and hardware. Adding disc in the back will increase that price...

I just use type F. When I opened the 4 speed in my RR, it had auto trans fluid in it. My race buddy said they did that for easier shifting in the winter. I thought him a little crazy, but lo and behold, even in the service manual it states either gear oil or auto trans fluid.

It used to be that anything in the 2 ratio was about $250, 3:23 was $300, 3:55 was $350, 3:91 was $400 and 4:10 was $450. Add for inflation, and a 3:23 should be $350-$400. The 741 and the cone SG hurts the value, except to those in the know who don’t believe in the myth, so I don’t mind running...

The B&M flex plate is drilled for both sizes of bolts.

You will be ditching the small valve 516 heads I assume?

I’ve heard this!….

The pinion nut and washer are reusesble, and I believe the 240 ft/lb is correct, but finding the torque wrench to get to that setting is not easy. Just torque that puppy down with all your might and you should be fine.

he is not going to get a 71-74 B body rear to fit under an early A body car, they are the widest 8 3/4” you can find. Well, except for a C body unit, which is very close in width to the one he has.

I remember taking my car back to my trans guy to remove and fix the mistake his guy made, putting the wrong shaft in the a-995 gear set I gave him to put in. When he saw the fancy blue trans fluid I put in, he just laughed and poured it down the drain. He said simply, “trans fluid is trans...

It’s called an annular ring, and I believe Pat still sells them. Charlie S should have them also, or they can be made quick enough on a lathe.

I’ll send him one if he likes!