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It would be nice to see the specs of the fan motor. Is it one or 2 fans?

I would stick with Del (67Dart273), he is very knowledgeable in any and all things electrical.

The auto parts alternator machine will be able to test the alternator under load.

You can take the alternator off and take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. They can tell you if it’s indeed charging, and the amperage of the unit.

That 2nd picture of the amp meter shows it running at a discharge. It should be running at a slight charge

A typical charging system should be charging at 14.4v, so 12.4 is pretty low. Without the amperage of the fan motor, and the amperage of the alternator, it’s hard to tell whether the se components will live together. Looking at the alternator, it appears to be no more than a 48a-60a unit. A...

In some applications, the size of the squareback will limit the travel for tensioning the bolt, and a shorter belt will need to be used. Not to mention, the increased output of the Powermaster unit may be more than the old 64 wiring can handle.

You may find that the squareback design limits the adjustable travel of the alternator, and you may need a shorter or longer belt to get it right should there be interference while trying to tighten the existing belt.

I unplug the toaster every morning when I leave. I just don’t trust those things!

It’s the tach sending unit, and they’re relatively hard to find. They are also usually not working because of their components being 50 years old. Bonus is that there is a new solid state replacement board available that fits right into the can.

The sending unit needs to be grounded by way of a ground strap from the sending unit hose neck to the hard line that heads to the engine. It needs to be clean metal, and a nice tight clamp. Most of the time that is the problem, but you can check the guage by grounding the sending unit itself by...

Is there really anybody but Ray to go to for anything distributor related? I think not!

my favorite quote, from my metal shop teacher....”good enough is not good enough”. I use that often.

Initial timing is where you set the timing not started, and at or near top dead center right before firing happens in the #1 cylinder. It is usually set by identifying when the piston is approaching TDC on #1, and is usually set at 12 degrees before TDC. When you start the car, the timing light...

It camel backs over the rubber hose in that pic. You can always buy a new one, and they make them in a couple different lengths. 2 3/4” and 4 3/4” or something like that.

I’m surprised that 10 fuses didn’t fix the problem.

Took out wires you didn’t need anymore? That right there would be where I would start, except to get a wiring diagram for your car. Sounds like you’re trying to run a GM style single wire alternator and eliminate the ballast system. It can be done, but you need to understand how the Mopar...

That can is also correct for early B body cars with the factory console mounted tach. That would expand your buyer base if you were selling.

Try to use the bulbs with the brass caps instead of the nickel silver ones. The brass caps provide a much better ground for the bulb.

There are 2 wires on the old VR, and the same 2 wires on the new VR, both units use the same color wires. The green wire is the existing field wire, and to add the 2nd field wire you splice it into the blue wire.

That’s how old school I am I guess. I don’t even like doing it that way, I usually get the newer style VR and plug and just splice it in. But, I’ve done the pigtail many times too! This old dog is hard to train new tricks, just me I guess.

Wire it up back the way it was, and make a small jumper wire that goes from the 2nd field of the alternator and ground it to the case of the alternator.

You can buy the new circuit board that fits right into the can and upgrade it to solid state. Also, I was told by the powers that be that if you want to lube the tach mechanism, only use Slick 50 “1” lube, no other lube is acceptable. The new circuit board also has a calibration feature, and...

Thanks Rob, I’d be lost without you!!

One last question...what happens to the wire coming from the loom that used to go to the coil?

That’s exactly what I’m going to do. I appreciate all of the responses here, and I have a hotter coil that was on the same parts car with this distributor, if I can find it around here somewhere, I’ll use that! Thanks again people, you’ve all helped a bunch!

Well now, that sounds like something I can handle chop chop!! Thanks Rob, checks in the mail!

It’s a stand alone unit, there’s a little brain box on the side of it. I probably made a diagram of how it hooked up, but lord knows where that even is!

Howdy people, old cosgig here. I’m nearing the start up point on the little convertible, and instead of using the old points distributor, I thought I would throw this one in. It’s one of those Chinese electronic 2 wire distributors, and it’s brand new, but I’m not sure how to hook it up. It was...

I have Pioneer Supertuner radios in my vehicles. I can always find them at the bigger shows like the Nats, but I find them just about anywhere. And, they require no cutting of the dash! Of course, they’re only cassette, but since I have about 300 cassettes, thats not a problem for me!