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The 185’s would be perfect for the 4.5” rims, the 205’s would be fine on the 5.5” rims, but you could go 215” if you so desired.

I’ll ask him. Just so I know, they’re N/50/14, correct?

He lives out there by you. He is working on his Dads old Barracuda, tunnel road, velocity stacks, the whole works. He has a set of N50’s but they’re too rough to use. He posted a wanted thread, I forget where, but since you have a deal going, the point is probably mute.

Your neighbor Nick James is looking for a set of those for his nostalgia build on his dads old car!

Thank you sir. The hubcaps are original to the car

I always put em out, I think it makes the car look racier! Apparently, I’m also a big fan of dog dish hubcaps, they’re a cheap, cohesive way to get a look!

EZ Off oven cleaner in the yellow can.

Looks like they would work for 4.5” Ford and Mopar, or 4.75” Chevy. Too small for 5” and too big for 4”

Those aren’t OE lugnuts, so I’m assuming you’re having trouble getting the socket on all the way as well? Have you put the socket on and tapped that with a hammer to try to break the bond between the nut and stud? I doubt spraying them down with penetrant will even reach the threads, so yes...

Nope, doesn’t rub at all. It fits in there just right IMO, and I like the look of it just the way it is.

This all depends on whether you like a tall sidewall or not. I like the older school tall tire, and I have 5.5” wide steel rims, same width as a small bolt Rallye. If you go with a 60 series sidewall, you can run a slightly wider tire like a 235, but if you like a taller tire, 225 is the wax I’m...

Here’s a 225/70/14 on my daughters car.

I agree with the above consensus, the car looks good as an entire package. I’m usually a fan of a 70 sidewall, because I’m old and thats why, but I also go on a car by car basis, and those suit your car. I wouldn’t change unless I really loved something else.

@clifcuda65 is the person who was making them out of stainless, but that was some time ago. Maybe message him and see what the possibility of him making some more sets is.

I got a set of 4 of these 14x6” deep dish steel rims on an old project car I bought. I thought they were cool, so I had a couple dechromed and painted to match the blue car. Put them on the back for a little wider look.

Stock on early A body Formula S cars from 65/66, also correct for 67 big block Darts and Barracudas, and starting in 68 they were standard rims on 340 equipped cars as well as big block cars, right up through 1972.

in order to go bigger tires, you should be on the lookout for the factory 5.5” width. They allow you to run up to (and beyond) the “recommended” 215mm width tires. I’ve seen up to 245’s mounted in them, although that’s a little to bulgy in the sidewall dept. factory small bolt rallyes are all...

That’s 4”, easily told by the small center register hole.

Measuring the backspace has nothing to do with the brakes. The rim mounts to the axle, and the backspacing is measured from the face of the drum, which is mounted to the face of the axle. Out a straight edge on the face of the axle, and measure from the edge that is on the face back to the...

Most all of them.

best source for 15x7” wheels there is. My brother and I even call em 5th Ave wheels. And of course, just like you, we pay $12 a piece at the pick and pulls whenever we see em. I have a set of em on my Roadrunner, can’t get 15” wheels cheaper than that!

Small bolt rallyes only come in one size 14x5.5”. Of course you can get them in just about any size now in the aftermarket, but OE ones will all be that size. There’s a 100% chance that your car came with either 13” or 14” steel wheels, as that is all that was available. Which wheel covers were...

Those are 68 only caps.

How about a little more information? Stock spring location? Size of rims and backspacing? Lowered suspension? Anything??

Unless the backing plates have been drilled to fit the 8 3/4”, the 9” brakes will not fit an 8 3/4” rear. Even then, who would go through the trouble of doing that to get smaller brakes? And a 340 car would not have 9” brakes from the factory...ever. Better check those diameters.

Easy to figure out. 195 is the measurement of the tread width in millimeters, 65 is the percentage of the tread width that the sidewall is tall. So 195x65% is 123.11mm, 205x60% is 123mm, same height.

No clearance issues at all, and if they are original small bolt rallyes, they will be 5.5” wide. The maximum “recommended” tire you should run is a 215mm. I have seen 235 and 245 on 5.5” rims, but the sidewall bulges way out past the rim edge! You could probably do 225, if you can find them.

I go strictly by what my tire guy recommends. He has worked at Discount Tire since we were in high school, and dated the daughter of Discount Tires founder. He also manages the #1 Discount Tire store in the nation. He knows tires up and down, front to back, and I’ve bought a LOT of tires thru...

This is my trailer, almost 8000#, I would never consider running an LT tire on it. I stick with tires designed for the loads that they are made to handle. There is no light truck out there even close to the weight of a large trailer.

I have Hartland Radial S/T on my trailer, reported to be the best trailer tires out there, by my tire guy. He’s been in the tire business for the past 35 years, and I’ve bought a lot of tires thru the years. He claims these are the best trailer tire made, and summarily wrote off the Goodyear...