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My clutch does not “snap back” so to speak, but I can easily power shift through the gears with minimal effort, and the clutch is never the problem. Now the bench seat pistol grip? That’s a little more than a handful.

Word on the street is that when using a diaphragm clutch that you remove the OC spring, which is what I did on mine. Although I’m not running a hydraulic, I’m using a Centerforce.!

I run the stock flywheel, and the stock aluminum bellhousing. No problems with either.

This is in my 6bbl Roadrunner, and it has no problem with my spirited driving style

My 6pak RR has the 130 tooth flywheel, which is correct for the aluminum bellhousing and the 10.950” clutch. With the Centerforce clutch and no over center spring, it shifts like a breeze.

Which trans??

I deal with Wayne and Todd all the time, they are very knowledgeable and very helpful about all things 4 speed! Yes, they are a little old school, but you won't be disappointed!!!

All 3 of mine are the same!!

3/8"-16tpi, 3/4" long threads, 1" overall, head diameter 3/4"

It needs a pilot bushing!

A car in 1000 pieces should not be reflected in by how much it might be worth if you sell it! You have a long road ahead, just do what makes you happy and worry about the value later! I think you'll find that the difference in value between the 2 transmissions will be negated by your enjoyment...

You have options, and none of those options require you to disassemble anything! First, simply check the rear register of the crank for the pilot bushing, you may get lucky and there will be one already installed! If there is not one, you can have the outside diameter of a new bushing turned...

There is a difference in the clutch pedals between a 340 car and a 318 or slant car tho! They will physically interchange, but the return spring is different and I believe the bracing is stronger as well!!

I don't believe any of it will work in a car later than 66!!

That is roughly the correct location of the shifter!! If it were centered in the hump, it would be directly above the trans tailshaft, in which case you would need a Ford top loader trans! Mopar shifters mount on the side of the tailshaft!!!

I was just kidding all, I know it's trashed, but I am hoping that the tailshaft can be salvaged! It is an early A body trans, but it is a 66 trans, so it has a slip joint tailshaft instead of the earlier flange style for the ball and trunnion!

Clutch??? You need a clutch??? Fer wat???

Had this 4 speed trans sold but it was still on the motor! Took off the trans bolts but the trans wouldnt slip out, so I had to do the bellhousing too! Still wouldn't come apart but I could see down into the clutch assembly! 2 of the pressure plate bolts were gone and the other 2 were backed...

Post a pic, I have a couple early bells here I can compare to!

Message member "vntned", he just listed one correct for 64-65 cars! Geof

Forges crank balancer on left, cast crank balancer on right! Forged=skinny and no ring, cast= wider and has additional ring on front! Just look down behind your crank pulley, you should be able to tell right quickly which crank you have! Geof

The crank is drilled plenty deep enough for the bushing! All of my other cranks that have the bushing in them already have almost an inch more depth than the bushing! This crank is drilled as deep as the other cranks! The snout of the input shaft has not been modified, and with the bushing in...

Do you mean to make a bushing that fits in the crank register where the converter snout goes, but has a pilot hole size in the middle for the input shaft?? That's not a bad idea!!

So, I'm going to turn down the bushing od to size! That is the way the owner of the car decided we would go, and buying the undersized bushing is the same as turning it down!! I read the answer in the link 66fs gave (thanks for the link) and it kinda confirmed why im goin to check the runout...

Well, to clear up any confusion, this is a 66 273 motor with a forged crank! Every other motor and crank I have here is not only drilled and reamed, but all have the bushings already installed! They are 340's though, so I think that was automatically done with that displacement! The only other...

Me?? Distracted??? Never....wait, what were we talking about?? ;-)

Thanks for the response there rani!! I was hoping not to go the bearing route if I could, but seeing that it is only $10 makes that route much more plausible! Thanks for the input, and give the kitties some lovin from Nella!! Have a happy thanksgiving also!! Geof

So, I think I've found my answer, and the answer is that its not finished for the bushing! The hole needs to be .9375, or .003-.004 undersized of the bushing! Now thinkin of turning down the od of the bushing to fit! It would need to have .015 off the wall thickness which is .100, leaving the...

Might come to that, but already have the bushing! Its customer provided items and was hoping it was finished the right size to pop the bushing in already! .035 oversize seems like a lot though!

Howdy all, cosgig here! I'm in need of a little help with my upcoming project! I have to install a pilot bushing into the crank and I need to know if this hole is finish reamed for the bushing or not! Does anybody have knowledge of the correct size the hole should be for the bushing? The bushing...