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Here's what I have for radiators in a couple of my original '66 Barracudas. My 273 4bbl 4 speed Hamtramck 49 state car has the 2582930, which has a 2 row core. My 32,000 mile survivor is a Formula S auto. LA plant Ca car. with heavy duty cooling uses a 2582975 which is a 3 row with a shroud...

I don't think those fasteners on the radiator bracket are correct. They should be bolts going in from the outside into cage nuts mounted in the radiator brackets.

Yes, same design, but, do they actually measure the same?

They claim those repops are the same as the A-body. Anyone have a genuine B-body one to take some measurements?

As far as I know, all the '65-6 V8 shrouds are the same. '64 and earlier A-bodies didn't have a 22" radiator, so, no application there except maybe they fit the B-bodies?. The 19" ones for the 63-4 slant 6 should all be the same too. In '65-6 a slant 6 with A/C would have gotten the 22" radiator...

I've never had a '73-up unit apart so I don't know if it's easier to fix or not. Unless it's a minor problem, I don't know if there are any repair parts for it as it's all riveted together and was only sold as an assembly. The only ones I ever remember selling was because one or more of the...

Ok, then the slide control probably failed.

Would one of those water pumps with the back plate help? Just for curiousity sake, why a motor plate? That's just looks like a leak waiting to happen, to me.

You definately have a mismatch there.....the face plate is correct for a '73 but the control is an earlier one. The '73 control should be a lever type with a verticle fan control in a plastic housing. The one you have is a slide control with a metal housing. It looks like they trimmed an earlier...

I've never had good luck sealing a chrome cover. If I need the chrome look, I'll sand off the bottom so there is no chrome left on it and then seal the thing. I like the cast iron ones....problem free.

A/C and non A/C heater boxes are totally different. Non A/C flaps are cable operated and A/C flaps are vacuum controlled. The mounting and firewall holes for the tubes are in a different spot also.

I have one if you haven't found one yet. Thanks, Mark

Yup

What year are you working with? Factory A/C?

A factory setup would be worth something to someone doing a restoration or major repair but otherwise it's not particularly valuable. An aftermarket unit is virtually worthless without all the other changeover parts.

The pushbutton control unit probably failed.

I like the look but I think it just a leak waiting to happen. Anyone able to keep a chrome neck from leaking? Every one I've seen or owned eventually leaked.

Usually the clutch/pulley and hoses are different too.....

25 degrees sounds pretty darn mega cold to me! I've had many systems where I was tickled just to get it down to 40!

As much as I dislike them, I think I'd go with a fan clutch system over the ridgid one for an A/C setup. You're going to need all the horsepower you can get with that 170! Measure the distance from the center of your water pump shaft, out to the nearest obstruction.....usually a radiator hose...

I would agree if it wasn't for the fact he's getting cooling.....in fact, mega cooling at the evaporator and the low side is not in vacuum which is what I would expect from an expansion valve being stuck shut. With the expansion valve stuck shut you should not get ANY cooling, correct?

With the cooling he's getting, there must be plenty of flow. If the valve was stuck shut, you wouldn't get any cooling at all. I agree that usually when the valve sticks shut, you get those kinds of readings because there is no flow but how do you account for the 25 degrees at the evaporator...

That was my first thought too......expansion valve stuck open.

'60-2 A-body with the fresh air heater will work. If you can't find the correct one, you'll probably have to find a good radiator shop that can make you one. Most heater cores are a waste of time trying to unclog them. Even if you get them clean inside, they'll usually leak shortly after.

The '69 and older engines had the timing marks on the passenger side and used the cast iron water pump. When they redesigned the engines for 1970 to the aluminum pump, they moved the timing marks to the driver's side and changed all the pulleys and brackets. Just to confuse people some more...

None of the ones you listed will work for your application. You'll need a complete set of pulleys and alternator brackets from a '70 and newer small block without A/C. If you use a crank pulley from a '72 and newer, you'll need to egg out one of the mounting holes if you're using the '70-1 only...

What kind of help?

If you can't find one, let me know. I may have a broken housing that I can pull a flap out of.

..................................................................................................... Here's one I took out of a '66 model.

I should have a good used one. Thanks, Mark