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You know, it is possible that someone has changed the master out and put in one from a power brake car with a bigger diameter bore. This would result in a real hard pedal that requires extra leg effort. You could probably unbolt it to slide it forward enough to measure the piston bore with a...

I agree with all above, factory manual disc breaks are great and actually have pedal feel. If the car doesn't stop well you likely have other issues.

I have my line lock wired to a plug under the dash. When I go to the strip I plug the in the button which has several feet of wire on it. When I am done I unplug it and the button / wire goes into the glove box. Keeps things looking fairly stock.

No, I dont think so. With these axles your wheels are going to be farther outboard as well. Check your fender to tire clearance.....

Are those axles intended for use with A body brakes? Are they original a body brakes? I believe the a body brakes are narrower and your axles are intended for b c or e body brakes. Call Cass at dr. Diff. He will talk you through it.

Or as another thought, the retaining ring groove could be in the wrong location on the bearings? Or the area where the retainer seats is worn?

I agree with you about the narrow pad contact area. It looks like they are rocking, contacting too far into the drum in the un machined area first. This is not the first post about drums contacting the backing plate after installing green bearings. I wonder if it is a housing problem, if the...

Clearly you have come to the conclusion that the problem is related to the rear brakes, it sure sounds like they are not adjusted right. Are they assembled correctly? Small pad on the front and large on the rear? Can you post some pics of the rears with drums off?

That sure does not look lime a tapered pipe thread.

Complete 8 1/4 a body brake assemblies are a bolt on from drums to backing plates. Assuming your 8 3/4 housing is a body width, you then order a body big bolt pattern axles (dr diff is recommended) with you desired flavour of green or tapered roller bearings and bolt ot together. I have done...

One of two things. Either the pistons are seized or too tight in the bores (usually on old calipers) and drag causing heating and expansion of the pads and rotors resulting in drag or, as stated above, the master cylindere cylinder pushrod is too long and holding the piston slightly depressed...

If anyone has seen this before and has an answer for you it will be Cass at Doctor diff. Be is very knowledgeable, bonest and fair. I would give him a call.

You could have that area of the drums machine a tad to prevent the contact. Might be able to do it on a brake lathe? The real question is, though, why is it rubbing.....it shouldnt. I wonder if they have the right gasket (s) in the right places. I could be wrong but I think it goes axle housing...

In days gone by there was a residual pressure valve in drum brake applications. Its purpose was to hold a small amount of pressure in the system in order to keep the wheel cylinder rubber cups expanded and sealed. Wheel cyinders of today no longer need this as they have different cups, steeel...

4 wheel discs on the 55 in my signature. Fronts are volare rotors and camaro / s10 calipers. Rear are ford explorer 8.8 discs. I use a volare manual master cylinder designed for disc / drum with an adjustable proportioning valve. It works fine. I have been told, and can confirm through...

As above, likely a leaking wheel cylinder or axle seal has contaminated the brake pads. They become very grabby when soaked in oil. An oversized brake drum coupled with worn pads will also do the same.

Pics of the front end, discs and rotors, and the master cylinder / booster would be helpful .

Yeah, good eye. I didn't notice that....

That has compression fittings, my understanding is that they are illegal in automotive brake lines. Definitely not factory. I would guess it is someone's way of locking out the rear brakes so that they can do burn outs. A poor man's line lock.......

It might be a good idea to take the mater cylinder off and physically measure the bore size at the back end. It is possible that it was mis packaged and may not be as advertised. I suppose the same goes for your wheel cylinders.

Is it the correct master cylinder? One with a larger piston diameter will give you less pedal travel.

So are you saying then that 73 and up A bodies did have a proportioning valve?

Seriously? This cant be right. both the 74 and the 2 75 darts I have owned had proportioning valves, or are you saying they were only junction blocks? I have a hard time believing there was no proportioning valve in 73 and up A bodies...

That is funny....well, sad that your dad is away, but funny in that I am an aircraft mechanic (helicopters) and I am overseas working right now. I actually leave today for 5 weeks off at home. Which reservoir was empty, the smaller or the bigger one? Are they power brakes (is there a large...

Funny eh, I did not notice that you located the same diagram, LOL

First lesson - the internet is an amazing tool. If you don't know something, google it first, and then ask here after and we will point you in the right direction. The master cylinder is bolted to the back wall (firewall) of the engine compartment directly in front of the driver, you access it...

If you "pump" the pedal a few times do the brakes work? Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? Drums all around or discs on the front, manual or power? If any sign of fluid leaking - down the inside of the tires, under the dash above the brake pedal? Has the car been sitting...

Trudysduster - what is the measurement of the pilot on the end of your axles, do your axle flanges have more than one set of holes for studs, and what is the diameter of the pilot on your brake drums?

I agree, it may be a B body housing, but has A body axles and brakes, Only the A body ever had 5 on 4" bolt pattern

Do you have old small bot pattern axles that have been redrilled to large bolt pattern? It is the only thing that I can think of that would explain the small pilot diameter and the 5 on 41/2 bolt circle.....if this is the case your old drum should have two sets of stud holes?