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The only thing I was unable to do is check piston to valve clearance. SUPER hard to accomplish an accurate measurement while the motor is still in the car. I am running a bit bigger valves, and I know I was cutting it close before with the closed chambered heads. I installed a set of 906 open...

I did just this and everything worked out great. I had been looking for a good write up like that for awhile. They do a pretty good job explaining the geometry of your valve train. I sure do wish that we can have a compiled tech article on these forums. I would be more than happy to code one up.

Now I understand what you said, but knowing how to dial in the correct length is where im lost. Do I adjust the length and just determine the length as to how much the valve opens, or by how the rocker arm rides on the valve tip?

Lost my private messages when the forum switch over. Had a gentleman give me the full correct process to check the length on the pushrods. Anyone else here willing to chime in?

Right, I guess I need to word this a bit differently. When I put my pushrod length checker in, am I doing the process with the marker correctly? Also, I got word that the lkfter needs to be on the bottom side of the lobe and I make the pushrod larger until there is no play, them make it .020"...

Hard to tell without knowing if the misfire is random multiple or if it is dead cylinders. Hell it could be a vacuum leak on the carb throttle shaft for all we know. They are notorious for wearing out quick.

My 440 slipped into my 70 swinger like a glove. Tri-y headers and schumacher mounts. No problems at all.

Hello guys. Nice to see you guys still as active as ever. First off I would like to "warn" you guys that I am kind of new to valve train adjustment. From being an engineering student, I do know the terminology and can understand complicated instructions. I bought the set of cut to fit...

Thanks guys!!!! It is installed!! Just gotta finish opening up my aluminum water pump housing ports and find some steel head gaskets.

Well I guess I will hop on the phone and wait 45 minutes to talk to a tech......

Is it normal for a 3-bolt cam to not have that nipple coming out of the middle of it? Just a flat surface? Just making sure before I throw it in.

Will do!! Looks like I have a day off next week so hopefully I can get my spring height checker in and get the heads set up before that time comes. Should be able to get everything installed in a days time. Now on to some oil question. I work at a local parts store and if I am not mistaken...

Yeah I found it. I went ahead and ordered a 23-224-4 which is the XE274H grind with a 3 bolt configuration. Ordered a set of new lifters with it as well.

I found the cam you posted. If I am not mistaken based on my research, the XE268H is the 3 bolt version of the XE274H.

I hate to be that guy, but when I click your link, I got a ford camshaft haha

UPDATE: I picked up a blem aluminum water pump housing for $20 yesterday. It is brand new and the blem is the ports. They seem to be cast just a bit small so I opened them up with a handy dandy dremel tool. Good investment I think. If anyone need one of the passenger side outlet cast iron...

Ok who or what cam company do you suggest? I am not opposed to going with a more modern cam, but I am on a budget. What cam company will do a custom grind without bending me over on the price?

Before I pull the trigger, is there a 3-bolt version of this cam?

Oh and I have adjustable rockers now. So size of cam is a little less of an issue with my valvetrain now.

Good info everyone. I went ahead and ordered the syringe off of amazon. I took the volume from one chamber on both heads. Both sides measured at a hair under 88 cc. If I were to put a number to be a bit more precise, i would say 87.7 or 87.8. Good info guys. I have the cluster setup to run a...

I will attempt to find the syringe locally and do this on Friday.

Oh and by the way, I purchased a set of adjustable ductile rockers. Decided I didn't want to sacrifice power over a set of $200 rockers which is cruicial for higher lift cams.

Haven't been able to get ahold of the stuff to check the cc of my heads. I plan to do so eventually. Is there a way to check if these heads have been milled with a micrometer? I know checking the volume of the cc will tell me this, but I won't be able to check that for awhile. I would like to...

If I left something out, please let me know kindly and I will do my best to get you an answer.

Ok lets try this again. I took some time and carefully measured some stuff to get more clear answers before I start throwing parts at this motor. 1978 440 20/20 crank - stock stroke/rods bored .030" over Flat top L2266 pistons WITHOUT VALVE RELIEFS The pistons sit .084" in the hole -...

Ok guys, I am going to start a new thread. I have more information on what I have, and want to further discuss this.

PM sent.

I never said I have .038 quench distance. The motor has a 750 carb on it currently. ("But guess what; you are still stuck with the problematic rocker gear." ) Not sure what you are going off of right here.. With a smaller cam, I eliminate the problematic rocker situation. Good info.

All of the above is pointless to check when you know you have a disastrous combination of parts. Hydraulic lifters on a solid cam, a cam that is much too large for non-adjustable rockers with pushrods that are way too big in length for the circumstances, closed chambers heads on top of a zero...

Great information! I will be following this precisely. I think that I actually have a pushrod length checker in the shop. When I run into town later on I will check and see.