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Damn, you oughta hear mine. Headers, h pipe, flowmasters and no tailpipes. Just turndowns at the axle. Thought about tailpipes once, but saw how little room I had (springs moved over with 1" offset kit). Maybe if I put a fuel cell in it this spring......

Put in a fuel cell. Once the gas tank is out you'll have a lot of room.

Anything I have read over the last 30 years has always said to place it as close to the collectors as possible.

Put it as close to the header collectors as possible.

If you want to lower under hoood temps, get them jet hot coated. Makes a noticeable difference.

I have Schumacher headers with a 2.5 exhaust with H pipe, Flowmasters, that dump in front of the axle. You'll definitely get people's attention. It's loud, but in my opinion not annoying loud. One unsuspected benefit? Wife hates the noise and won't set foot in my car. Priceless!

IMO you can't beat that old standby, Flowmaster. they offer more sizes, styles, inlet and outlet positioning, tube sizes, etc than anybody, plus they work.

73 went to the newer style motor mounts. Maybe they're bigger and the headeers can't fit around them.

personally the mandrel bent tubing 2.5 will probably flow as well as the 3" if its not mandrel bent. If you're going out the back with it the 3" will be tight between the gas tank and the spring too.

If you have "actual" big block a body manifolds, you should be able to find a bolt on exhaust for it. Try tti or accurate ltd. If you're using b body manifolds you're sorta on your own. Something else, if you have the original manifolds they're worth some decent money, sell em and get some...

Any muffler that has "race" in its name reallt isn't a muffler. Put on a pair of the longest 3" flowmasters you can find, and if its still too loud go to 3" tailpipes.

I have the schu's on my duster with 2 1/2" exhaust with h pipe and flowmasters and turndowns at the axle. I honest can't believe that I'd pick up any hp by uncorking them. A lot of work for little or no gain.

Would you mind telling me why you will spend that much money for these? They won't make any HP over a good exhaust system. Other than making things loud occasionally, I don't see the use. I could see 40 years ago when the exhaust systems were junk, but not now. enlighten me. You could put...

I've seen some mufflers that are generic that had 2.5" inlet and outlets but the internal piping was only 2". Throw soem flowmasters or equivalent on there. then there won't be any questions.

If you want quiet, just go to Midas or something like that. They'll be able to come up with something for you.

To get the full benefit you need mandrel bent pipe, not this junk. I would stay away from this with a 10, no 20 foot pole.

I think ya gotta ask yourself, if I buy the 1 7/8" TTI's that fit, will I really lose that much performance? Or do I want to use the Hookers (not on the street) or the maddogs. Its all relative. How important is that 20 horsepower you MIGHT lose with the TTI's?

If its the article I'm thinking about it was in Mopar Action. They installed them in a b body with a 383. I know the Schu's are not cheap (got the cancelled check to prove it) but they fit and don't leak.

There is no room to put mufflers at the bumper. They have to go under the rear seat. If you want a quieter exhaust, use tailpipes and a balance tube or x pipe.

Mad dog headers makes a set of headers for B motor A bodies. Have heard good and bad about them, about the same as tti. Check them out , they're in southern michigan. If memory serves me well about $500 a set and supposedly easy install.

back when I had smallblock abodies with headers, I made a special wrench for the back two cylinders on the driver's side. I took a long, cheap, sheetmetal type of plug socket and if I remember correctly cut it off around plug height on an angle. The I welded a handle on it. I could get those...

Ah, a prime customer for a set of MadDog headers. Don't have a web site for you but google him. He's in michigan sells 2 inch headers for b motor abodies.

Have I got a deal for you! I have a new pair of 2 1/2" duster tips with factory hangers. The tips were bought from accurate ltd and are stainless and brand new . the hangers are the factory ones from my duster (orig 72 340 car). I'll take $110 plus shipping for all. don

personally, I'd never use more than 1 gasket. I'd modify and/or change valve covers first. What you MIGHT try is to get a plain header flange and mount it: head, gasket, flange, gasket, then header. You'd need some longer header bolts. don

What you need are the 340 manifolds from 68-71. they are the best. don

Most headers will clear power steering boxes. The catalogs will show if they will clear. don

Pretty sure that the repo houses yearone, etc still carry the hangers. don

Any decent muffler shop can bend you up a system rather easily. Don't know of any prepackaged kits for that car.

I'm not sure why you're thinking about changing headers. You probably won't find any performance difference between the two. You can probably get yours Jet-Hot coated for around $200 or so. Lots cheaper than tti's. don

A lot of money for very little gain. Just make sure that your flapper in the pass side manifold works and put them on. Either that or headers. But you probably want to keep that stock look. I have the Schumacher headers on my duster (big block) and they are almost like tubular manifolds. As...