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I agree with Joe. Throw one in the torque converter, I add 6-8 then fire it up, and add more til it reads full.

I just missed out on a set of used 3.55s, and was wondering if it was possible. I guess you're right, once it's apart, what's the big deal of swapping the ring gear as well.

I was wondering, I've got a set with 39/7 teeth (5.57s), and I see the 3.55s have 39/11. Could I just swap the pinion, or doesn't it work that way? Also, what would that do to my backlash? I assume I'd have to set it up again. Thanks, mike

I have the 3000 Hughes one, and behind my weak 318 it only stalled at about 2200-2500 RPM, but it had no torque. I've got it behind the 413 in there now. We'll see.

Can you get the lines with th end flares? I don't mind bending them, I just didn't want to flare my own ends, and risk a leak after everything was assembled.

I think this would be a good place to post this. I've always just re used my lines, and if a piece of rubber needed to be spliced in, so be it. I'm considering getting some of those pre bent ones. Are they pricey? (1976 duster with a 727).

Both the o ring on the dip stick tube, and the selector seal can look like the pan is leaking. Here's the seal, got it for $5 at the local trans shop. Put one in whenever you pull the valve body.

4x4s are totally different (tail shaft out), of course. Mike

Not an A body, but i just inherited a '93 3.0 V6 Spirit that has a shot trans, and a really nice body. Can I get a trans out of a mini van of the same era? I see those all the time where some poor sucker has been ripped off to rebuild the trans, and a year later they're junking them because the...

One of my 727s had a similar problem. It wouldn't upshift unless you let up. It's probably on the way out.

Very cool! Really appreciate the help. Mike

I have the gear selecton rod, and kick down off. just want to do this in the car. Mike

I've got a leak. Can I replace this without dropping the valve body? I recall reading the size of socket that you use to drive the new one in, anyone remember the size? also, anyone got the part #? Thanks, mike

The proof is in the pudding. Measure the width, and if it's really from a '70 B, you'll find out it's only a few inches wider than the A body one. Remove the perches, weld on new ones for like $12. Boom, done.

Old front pumps sometimes need a few seconds in neutral to fill. When you start it up, just put it in neutral for 30-45 seconds, then go to drive and see if that solves the problem. I've seen it before.