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my stock short block 360 magnum dialed in at 27 lbs

my 360 with a stock bottom end , short block with plugs out took 25 lbs on the torque wrench to turn it, you can grab the balancer and turn it by hand

x2 get yourself a timing tape find top dead center and start from there

dynoed 360 combos http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=1175&highlight=360

regrinding is cheap but dont forget that you will also be cutting off the hardening especially if you want to reduce the lsa

Thanks rustyrat I should have said that camquset6 was A GOOD PLACE TO START to get an idea of what he would need

the virtual dyno at comp cams is pretty good compcams.com download camquest6

It looks like that engine will be coming apart. it is also possible that the strikes caused rod bearing damage

Check the inside of the dizzy cap for cracks and carbon tracing Could be grounding out inside cap

Are you certain you installed the rings correctly (ring gaps 120 degrees from each other) also are you sure you installed the rings with the dot on top or beveled edge facing up???

with what you stated I RAN THE NUMBERS WITH CAMQUEST..........which is close to the numbers some of the other guys ran 310 HP @5000 381 torque @3500

see iF camquest6 AT COMPCAMS.COM WILL WORK WITH YOUR MAC

my buddy has a T Stock Automatic (NHRA) 318 with 320 degrees of duration, doesnt make much below 5000 but sounds nasty and revs easily to 7500

x2 stock 340 springs

download camquest6 at compcams.com Ive known several people who bought cams after running all the numbers and had excellent results have heard good things about the small thumpr and also the whiplash

Thanks guys...I'm starting with the 650 cause it's what I have on hand I have an 850 Thermoquad that I will eventually put on

Great, what you accomplished is exactly what I want a "sleeper"---a slight rump, high vacuum, and goes like a bat out of hell when I step on it. I was pleased that you recommended the Autolites I have had great success with them in the past.

Almost ready to fire up my 360 MAG since rebuild Need advice on starting points for jetting / timing/plugs Heres the specs: 92 360 Magnum bone stock block/ rods/pistons/ crank/ std bore stock heads crosswind air gap intake mopar performance distributor msd6al/blaster coil out of the box Holley...

Agreed...... if you live in a cold area, Performer RPM if you are in a warmer climate

camquest6 at compcams.com The cam is the most important piece in your engine. Leave to the pros who do it day after day.

yes mounts the same, Summit has some for about 70 bucks(up to 72, mounts changed from 73 up) several magnum specific intakes available edelbrock and crosswind OR drill and tap heads to mount an la intake with some oiling mods can use la heads on magnum block camshafts for magnums fairly...

If you use the hog and it has a balance weight be sure you knock it off so it will be neutral balance.

Agree, my friend has an NHRA T Stock Automatic race car with a 318 with a cast crank and he spins it to 7500.

I don't know how you look at it but for me the horsepower gain per dollar for me wouldn't be worth it with the extra $ by just stroking it without aftermarket/modified stock heads. If i had to hazard a GUESS I would say that depending on you other engine pieces you would probably achieve 50-75...

the 300 horse is a stock magnum with a carb and headers, which actually came out to 320 the 380 has a m1 single plane and a hyd flat tappet 292 @ 501 I have read that the 380's will pull close to 400 hp on the dyno

11.25 on iron heads on the street ??

stiff gears stiff converter good power to weight ratio no problem

This month's HOT ROD has an article on choosing a vac sec or double pumper

at some point that motor ate some water

fast duster 11.27 @ 120.5mph F.A.S.T. Duster - YouTube