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Long time ago (early 2000's) I got shorted twice buy a guy that I bought nitrous from regularly. First time I just let it go (missing about 2 lbs). After that I started taking my bathroom scale with me....next time it happened was the last time I purchased nitrous from him.

Yeah, I would definitely suggest a non-projected tip plug like the NGK 4554 R5671A-8 (the -9 is probably too cold). The plug you have with the long projection would be an issue. Below is the R5671A-8 Nitrous works well if you feed it plenty of fuel and bring back the timing; however, since...

11.0 was on the 180 shot if I recall correctly...and yes, Colorado air is thin, and the DA in the summer goes over 9000' on a regular summer day. My current stroker motor runs low 10's NA on e85,....needles to say, I like the current motor the best :) Edit: Don't forget to run a colder plug...

I built that particular motor for nitrous use with JE forged pistons, and the appropriate nitrous ring gap (~ 22-24 thousands if I recall correctly). I missed the part that you are running Hypers....supposedly "they" say you can get away with a small shot on hyperutectic pistons, but I have...

I would pull 4° to be safe, but you probably only need to pull 2°. Years ago when my car was bottle fed, I ran 28° locked out with a 150-180 shot...ran it for ~ 8 years like that, no issues.

Also, using an Air-gap with nitrous, I did the same thing years ago...BUT, keep an eye on ALL of your plugs. I stopped jetting my N2O system up at 180 because I didn't like the difference I was seeing in my plugs from the front of the motor to the back. The distribution was uneven, so I was...

I would back the timing up a LOT until you get the bugs worked out (like 28°). For NGK plugs I would use R5671A-8 for a 150-180 shot nitrous, -9's for your 250 shot. My nitrous motor used those plugs for 8 years, sprayed all the time, no problems....but ALWAYS keep and eye on your plugs...

My apologies if I came across harsh...once in a great while I forget to install my "be nice" filter. What I meant by "there are not enough words" was I was kind of beside myself in disbelief due to your description of your carburetor that you want people to help you with...because you just...

Most race motors have solid, or solid roller cams...especially the size you are describing...they require you to lash the valves. There just aren't enough words for this one...... Same as above.... You can’t just throw e85 in it and expect it to run if the carb isn’t made for...

If it is a mild 440 then you are probably safe with either rear, but if you are starting from scratch I would just start with a dana and not have to worry about upgrading down the road if you get bit by the "more power" bug.

Ok, I'm waiting for the punchline.....this has to be a joke....how do you have a 5800 converter and cross the strip at 5300??? Do you have a time slip? The incrementals would really help to see what is going on. If this isn't a joke, the rest of your combo (520ci, Indy heads, 13:1 comp...

You should be fine as long as you break in the cam properly. Don't forget to remove the inner springs for the break-in process to give the cam a good shot at surviving. And no to your other question...if taken care of, you should not be wearing down the cam fast. I would check it whenever...

Big, Wowza! Big, Schwing!! Big, OH YEAH!! Big, I need one!! LOL

This is one of the most retarded things I have read in a long time....Your MSD distributor is a VERY nice piece and VERY tune-able....spending money on a new DOWN grade is ludicrous. Let me guess, the person you were talking to was willing to rob you...I mean, sell you this down grade right...

I forgot to update this thread with the stroker combo that has been in my street/strip car for 5 seasons now....lol. Car—67 Barracuda Weight— ~3200 Gear ratio—4.10 Tire diameter—28”, Hoosier QTP RPM through trap— ~ 6000 1/8, ~6500 1/4 MPH through traps— ~ 100 1/8, ~123+ 1/4 ET—6.76...

I agree...Bigger cam and headers are a great start. The carb is fine...spend your money on parts you need (the carb can be tuned).

Nice!! I still think that combo should get you into the high 9's when it's all sorted out (with a better converter of course). SWEEEET!

I agree.

I ran pump gas up to 150 a shot, and 180+ I used 50/50 (v/v) pump/race gas as added insurance (along with 28 degrees timing). Anything to keep detonation at bay I thought was a good thing. The motor ran N20 99% of the time for 7 years with no problems. I know people run nitrous motors on...

I had a 360 on N20...lots of fun! But, it cost more in the long run by FAR. For example: Typical race weekend at my old track... Entry= $35 N20 = $60 Race gas (for running on N20)= $30 Total = $125 With my new stroker motor that I have now, I run the same number, but I only pay for...

I would TOTALY jump on those (assuming they have receipts’ and flow numbers for the porting)...that's probably 2800-3000 bucks worth of goodies there! Swap out springs and retainers and your set...heck, I have my old Edelbrock retainers, locks, and springs I'll sell you for cheap if you're...

Depends on what cam you're going to use. For instance: Comp Pro Magnums work great just the way they are for flat tappet cams…but if you stick a big roller cam in there with high spring pressures, you’re going to gall the rocker shafts. There are ways around this, like bushing...

What size and type of tire? If it hooks, 12.6 @ 109...if not...who knows, maybe high 12's. Looks to be around 390 hp at the crank (give or take). With a better converter, low 12's.

To me, it looks like it is running just fine for what it is. That is a pretty small cam and carb, so the motor nosing over at 5500 is to be expected. Are you sure you have double springs, or is it a single with a damper. If it is a double spring, then it is way more than that cam needs...

I've done it MANY times...I seem to get bored with my cam about once every 2 years! Easy job, even if you're clueless, just post your question and we will help you out. You should be able to do it in a Saturday with time to spare, about 2 hours to pull apart and about 4 hours to...

Its somewhat accurate if you feed it the right info... especially head flow numbers! If those are off, forget it. On my motor, it was very close to what the drag strip told me.

I would listen to what Moper has to say. I just finished my stroker motor a few weeks ago and can tell you that his numbers $$$ are pretty much right on. For instance, I already had my Edelbrock heads, pro magnum rockers, Air-gap intake, carb, ARP studs, converter, distributer & electronics...

Here's mine, it makes a little over 500: 360 block, Eagle 4 inch steel crank (410 ci), Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, Total seal rings, 10.8:1 compression, ARP main/head studs, Edelbrock heads with stage 2 port from RyanJ @ Shady Dell (flow 293 @ 0.600), Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Comp solid...

3/8 aluminum line front to back, Holley blue pump, Proform 750 dp.

Drag shocks, pinoin snubber, and Hoosier QTP...the cheap way to more bite.