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Been thru this. Crank has 6 holes, looks like another hole where notch is. 6

lol correct.

If it ain't exhaust stud, start over.

gearing, timing, a/f ratio.....

Go get a test tube, put 1/2" of gas in it, mark the level; put water in it, shake the crap out of it. If the gas level rises after 20 minutes, figure out the ratio. The eath absorbs water.

ethanol screws up every thing you own. Run your lawn mower and time a tank of eth. Then run it with non-eth marine gas- lasts a lot longer, makes up for the extra $ a gallon, AND doesn't hurt your engine. The inboard/outboard guys were first to figure this out. (I had one too).

So diluting your intake charge with exhaust gases, that don't burn, is better?

I used to do that to keep rust off it.

Figure out what you have, then get the correct pistons.

Correct bolt AND slinger is what the factory sent out.

Old cheap sloppy factory, with a purple 234 .484 cam and TRACTION, will do 13's.

Yeah on last 2 posts. Does the crank, with nothing attached, spin with you fingers? If no, stop. If yes, then install 1 piston at a time, and turn it over. It will take a wrench, and take more effort for each one. By the time it is buttoned up, you will want a 4 foot breaker bar to turn it.

What I meant was, the pan needs to be on, then install the timing cover. Napa- the right stuff is great, made by permatex.

Done it 3 times; always a leak at timing cover. It needs to be removed. By this time, easier to pull the engine and put it on a stand. And your body will feel so much better.

Spelling might be wrong; Bouchillian. Have used them, very good, and perfect customer service- the owner will call you back.

Just helped a buddy re-hab a 69 Charger. We went crazy on holleys and edelbrock carbs, timing erratic. etc So paid the big$ for the msd atomix fuel injection. Allready had the brainbox installed. So put it on; screw the instructions and their pump; you need a return system. I think it is...

Do not ever use silllycone. Once used, you can never clean the surface, and the crap is no good. Right stuff from permatex works.

You want to figure out water passages in a small or big block- let us know when you figure it out, lol. Dealing with them since 1968. I don't know.

Lol, as usual, Rob has it. If it works, don't change it, unless you have a barrel of $.

I,m sorry, that was a short reply. It won't make noise, just screw the timing up. Exactly ,what does the noise sound like? Where is it coming from?

Grab it and shake it. Then go elsewhere, and find the noise.

special flex plate.

I think some people confuse them with the old egr valves. I run pvc's. If it rattles, it is good.

brad penn, valoline race, zinc additive. Sounds like collapsed lifter. Seafoam, marvel mystery oil. Don't drive it or rev it untill lifter freed or replaced. It will throw off the pushrod, then the lifter will come out. All oil pressure gone. Been there.

You can run just breathers, pcv, both. If you don't have baffles, oil is coming out. A lot of oil slinging around in that valve cover. Look at that. If valve seals bad, worse problem.

Yeah, min 60, more is better. Silly putty.

vac pulls it open; pressure will push it open. You have other problems.

yeah, right stuff. That stuff works better than anything I ever used. And I started out as a chebby mech in 1969.

That is the hardest place to seal. Probably did 10 big and small blocks. Napa has a $18 tube, think it is called great stuff, clean everything with ether, and it actually works.

Since I was always poor; lay the flange on a flat table. Oh warped. Then take a hacksaw (now a grinder), and cut both outers loose from the 2 center tubes, The luck I have had with Mr Gasket on big and small mopars is nada; wasted $ for crap. Header, intake, all of it. Same with Edelbrock.