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oh....$35 shipped, 40 if you want it blasted and primed (and painted?) shipping, assuming a 12x12x2 box at 5# is almost $10 via ups, but that's included.

the top side has a little surface rust, but nothing bad at all. I can also bead-blast and primer these if you would like, to give you a perfectly fresh surface to paint. OR, i can even paint them gloss-black. whatever you prefer. I didn't realize it, but these are YearOne pieces. I also...

i'll take some pics tonight and shoot you a dollar figure. what is your location? i'll figure up shipping too.

I have the battery tray and braces from my 67 if you want them. I went to the trunk and know for sure that it won't be going back up front. I think i even have all the hardware, like the hooks and all.

that's the chart, in a different format....but i don't agree with it. yes, using too small of a wire will result in a drop, but that has nothing to do with their chart. the fine-stranded wire is great if you have sharp bends.....it's more flexible, but, like in my case, there were no bsharp...

ground to the trunk??? there is a chart....i'd have to dig it up, but it indicates recommended charge wire size for alternator amperage. if you have a pretty stock electrical setup, i'd go with 8-gauge minimum....i have an aftemarket ignition setup, and use 8.....if you have a high-power...

nevermind....found the measurements and then a clothespin that was the exact width! dizzy has now been curved!

anyone happen to have one of these lying around? my dizzy has 25* total advance and i need to take some out, but you have to buy a whole recurve kit just for the key.

ok....put on a new 78 amp unit from O'reilly. also ran 8 AWG from the alt to the trunk. now I have 14V at an 800 rpm idle. excellent.

this one is from an 80s chrysler....like a 5th ave or something...it was in the unkyard, but the car was complete and in good shape, so i figured i'd grab the alternator, regulator, and some relays for 20 bucks... i'mm looking at getting a 78 amp from the parts store for 60 bucks....lifetime...

ok...i had the "fuel problem" yesterday, and have some electrical problems today. I connected a spare battery with cables to the power junction uner the hood to help start the car. got it warmed up and idling at 800 rpm. had 13 volts. idled it up to 2K and had 14 volts. brought back down to...

i am looking at either the thermo-tec one or the design engineering one....which would you prefer?

i found Mallory's test procedure for the unilite module.... after proper preps, should have normal voltage on coil (-), then when you block the beam in the module, it should drop to <2V. mine only droped to 4.5, which the procedure says that it could produce a weak spark....so maybe that's...

actually, adam...you reminded me...... when i was reconnecting everything when i put the engine back in, the ground wires for the dizzy and for the hyfire somehow got wrapped around the alternator stator wire, and were connected there. When i went to connect the battery, i got a nice big...

done..... oh....and the dizzy is a mallory YL-577HP....has the optical trigger and mechanical advance

ok...on the way back from the dragstrip tonight (first time in this car....more on the night later) the car started sputtering a lot....it did it on one of my runs too, and i have been noticing it in the past few weeks, but tonight it was REALLY noticeable. I was cruising along at 4K, and...

ok...i just found out that it requires a puller.....now...can i just use the whole front cover/rotor from the old alt on the new one, or is the field where the extra output capacity lies?? seems to me that the stator is going to be different, and the fields would be the same, except that the...

so...i finally went and got a later model alternator and voltage regulator... but the pulley is tiny....how do i put the old one on??? it looks like it's all one piece and what's the round cylinder nose on the pulley for????

i drilled a hole in the firewall, next to the e-brake cable, installed a grommet, and ran the cable through it,(it enters the pass compartment just outboard of the E-brake bracket. then it goes behind the driver's fresh air vent, down into the kick panle area, and uner the sill plate....then it...

i have a ford alternator from a 83 lincoln town car it will fit in place of my round back alternator, so i wouldn't have to buy a higher current alternator if i can connect this one,...the town car came with the 65 amp alternator i think i'll need more current for the dual electric fans i'm...

that sounds backwards to me.....seems you'd want it ported, so that when you tromp it off-idle, you will get advance. if you hook it up to manifold vacuum, when you stomp it, vacuum drops and your advance goes away. ported, it would depend on how much accelerator you give it to determine the...