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i did the same with an air chisel

we may have different bushings...mine are 2 piece poly and they only go in one way. i wouldn't change the lower arm setup...like i said, my bushings pushed the lower arm back at the spindle end because they are too thick, and it has the inner bushings on the lower arms twisted and they look...

lowering it will bring the top of the spindle rearward, away from the front fender. this will also increase positive caster, and when yo go to get it aligned, they will probably want to dial in stock caster, which will put it right back where it was.... SO...best thing to do there is to find...

here's a pic from the track the weekend before last.....when i had such crappy RTs and 60's

it only took an hour!!! the passenger side is lower than the driver's side (i triple checked to be sure the springs were on the correct sides), but I think I have my torsion bars adjusted improperly from the old rear springs. i had tried to level the car with the torsion bars. all i need...

i never thought about a stripe..... i like solid colors....except where there is a contour change....like some 70s F-150s are nice in 2 tone....but i'm not a big fan of racing stripes and such...it really depends on the car, and i think mine would be a poor car to put any kind of stripe...

I did this last year. everything swaps right over except the idler arm....HOWEVER, if your suspension system (bushings and all) is questionable, now is a PERFECT time to rebuild it all. That's what I did

has the quality of Mopar's springs gone away? I may just buy Mancini's springs after-all... But i don't know whether to get the Pro/Stock or the XHD springs....... are the XHDs like a dearched Pro/Stock?

i was going to just use the stock 5-leafers that were on it when i got the car, but since i fixed the PO's shady B-body rear install, the passenger side sags about 1 1/2" lower than the driver side....it has taken 6 months to sag on down, but it has.... the car was 3100# at the last weigh...

well...as far as length, they need to be at least 2 1/2"....that's the spring width....i made mine 3", with a steel sleeve just a tad longer so that when you clamp down the front bolt, it doesn't bind the bushing...i posted pics of them awhile back...i'll see if i can find the post here it...

if you're talking about the front eye bushings, some were 1 1/2, and some were 2"...i don't know what determined what cars got which, but i was under the assumption that a bodies had 1 1/2" bushings, so i made a set out of nylon and had to make another set when i found out i have 2"...

cool :thumrigh:

"this end to rubber"?????????????? lost me there..... does what i said make sense? do yours have the properties i described? my poly bushings said nothing on them..... what i understood is that your strut rod bushings have one end that is beveled like it's rounded off, and the other...

the curved ends should face the washers....the flat end should have a little raised area around the center hole that fits into the hole on the K-frame

mikel.....is that jack stand supporting any weight of the car, or is it just under there and not touching the frame???

ss springs' claim to fame is that they have more bias in the passenger side spring to make the car launch straighter, since the car tends to roll toward the passenger side some people don't like that they make the car sit lopsided in the back, and others don't notice it or don't care their...

leaf spring U-bolts, rear shackle nuts, and I think that's all.... also... I bought some spring clamps....they are 1/2" square u-bolts, 2 1/2" wide, and use a 1/4" plate to clamp.... i have installed 1 per side, capturing the top 4 leafs.....first, how tight should i tighten them, and...

WOW..... :scratch: not that it has ANYTHING to do with shock plates......but 30 :mrgreen:

i'm looking at these plates.....I bet I can make my own....1/4" plate steel, with 1/4" plate gussets for the shock mounts.... basically just the same as the factory stamped pieces, but with the sides and bracing welded instead of stamped..... then some 1/4x1/2 bracing welded across where the...

just found that Mancini sells U-bolts for a 7 1/4 AND.......they're 2.5" bolts.......crap.....

is it just me, or should the spacing on the shock plates NOT be 2.5" ??? the U-bolts are 3", the housing is 3", but the bolt holes are 2.5" apart, or 3" ON CENTER wrong plates??????

caltracs/monos are about 600 bucks, right?

also...the mopar guys at work say i NEED SS springs....I don't want the *** end jacked up because the front end is barely within spec on the caster angle....any more height in the rear and it'll be out....AND i don't want it to sit lop-sided (with even t-bar adjustments) what will the SS...

I got to comparing parts, and the new shackles are 12" longer than the old ones. also, the offset hangers raise the front eye 1/2" closer to the car. seems to me this is going to put about 2" less pinion angle in it, but I already checked it before disassembly, and it was 5 degrees, so I used...

well....got the woman out there tonight recoating my wheelwells while I messed with the stock springs... my initial thoughts were to take them apart, blast them, repaint them, put in new rub pads, and clamp the front segments they are 5-leaf with the bottom leaf pointing forward on both of...

i got my suspension torn apart, and I have 2" front bushings and 5/8 bolts already....guess i don't need them i thought i had 1 1/2" bushings and 1/2" bolts.....guess my homemade nylon bushings are useless to me now

i think i have some grease for poly bushings and thought it might be good to put on the new rubber shackle bushings to ease installation.... or what about white lithium? i have a tub of that in the garage.....

true I had that problem on mine, but i figured it'd be ok and the alignment would take up the difference.....well, it BARELY did....i have heard of others doing, and would suggest you do this: shave off about 1/4" of the control arm side of the back bushing....this will get you about...

i've been looking online for front eye bolts haven't gotten to any hardware stores...the last time i went hardware store searching here, they were all rude and couldn't understand why I would want something they didn't have..... took me 3 weeks to find a 7/16 fine-threaded bolt for a different...

I know i can cut the nout off the offset hangers and weld on coarse thread nuts, but i'd like to keep the nuts that came on them. I can't find any 5/8", fine thread bolts for it, though......... also...whether i find the right bolts or not, is grade 5 good enough for the front eye bolts?