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I haven't adjusted the 770 Street Avenger from box-condition yet, but the guys at work say that when i'm leaving work in the morning, they cry from the rich fumes from my car...... it apparetnly doesn't do it once it's warm, but whenit's time to go, it's tome to go, and i jump in, fire it up...

i have acquired a free one of these (the 70 model, first one) http://www.sonicairsystems.com/product_soniccentblowers.php#70 but i just have the blower and bracket and idler...no motor (which i wouldn't need anyway) think it'd be ok for a vehicular blower? i was thinkin based on the...

FYI, all: this was vapor lock. yes, even in high 70s, low 80s... the fuel line runs about 2-3" from the header tubes. on the way to the strip tonight, started doing it again, and i felt the line and it was HOT. had the leaf blower with me, and a few minutes of that cooled her down and...

it doesn't have to be air-tight....just has to contain a possible explosion....most people rivet them in the car. also have to do the package tray area.....and has to be the correct gauge steel or aluminum....but i don't remember what gauge. i think seat belt passages will be fine

if the cell in in the trunk, you have to isolate the passenger compartment. that will cover the battery requirements. too. if the cell is under the car, then the battery has to be in a sealed box OR the trunk isolated from the passenger compartment. if the trunk is sealed off, then you...

i think i'm having multiple problems.....i'm posting again in electrical.

could underhood temps cause vapor-lock? the wire loom on the passenger side got melted during this fiasco. it's 4" from the header tube at the closest point......and about 15" of the loom was melted, but no wires. the fuel line may pass as close along the framerail, so could i have gotten...

possibly....i need a new fuel filter anyway...it has one of those Russell bronze element ones and it's supposedly good for 300 hp, but i think i'm making a bit more than that

hmmmm....maybe not....it sat outside all day, and i just went out to start it......no good.....won't turn over fast enough, then...click so i jump it, and get it started, but it won't idle.....adjust the timing back to previous, and it'll idle...that's good.... check the fuel...

ok...so i have been troubleshooting cooling problems this morning and think i am on the right track. i went for a drive and when i got out to the 4-lane, i went to go, and the car died....i thought i was out of gas, because i knew i was close. anyway....car won't start because of heat soak...

I glass-beaded mine and it looked ok, but there was some deep staining that wouldn't come off....but here is the "cast aluminum" engine paint you can get from Advance: I wound up painting the dizzy body, WP housing and pump, and the motor plate so it would all be the same color and not...

ok...got the old carb opened up...the old 600 vac sec has 65 jets (came with 64) and a 65 PV...the secondary plate is a 39, which is like 70 jets, the black secondary spring, and .031 squirter. the new 770 cfm came with 72 primary and 75 secondary jets, a 65 power valve, the silver spring...

how much clearance do i need above the air horn for it to breathe adequately? will it be ok if I make the lid JUST touch the bowl vent?

the one i have is dropped...with a 3" element, the lid won't go on all the way....which also prevents the choke from opening what i am going to have to do is use a 1/4" air horn spacer, and a 1/2" carb spacer...that'll get me 1/4" lower than i am now, and i'll still have SOME spacer.... we...

...says so right there

my old 600 cfm holley was on the torker intake with a 1" spacer. I just bought a 750 cfm holley and the air horn is taller, and it alone touches the hood insulation, and the top of the air cleaner touches the bowl vent, and also keeps the choke from opening all the way. I already know the...

with a fairly loose converter, it doesn't pull the engine down at all in gear....do i need to adjust the idle down a hair?

i thought about welding in a bung for an O2 sensor and using a voltmeter on it....but i may wind up just using strip times/plug readings to tune it.....i dunno

I know they come tuned pretty close for most applications, but are there any suggestions on what I may need to do when the new carb comes? It's a 770 Street Avenger, and comes with 72 primary, 75 secondary, .025 squirter, 65 PV, and silver secondary spring. this will be on my 400. 8.5:1 CR...

i actually should have shopped around a bit more, because i just found the same carb for $30 less somewhere else....oh well....win some/lose some. I really want something like a demon, but am too cheap to come off the money for it. hopefully, the 770 cfm will speed up my strip times...

the 750 cfm 4160 that is closest to the street avenger is $270 the quick change housing is $12 the secondary metering block to replace the 4160 plate is $38 i don't know what else the street avenger has, but that totals $320, and the work is already done, and i paid just a hair more than that.

I bought a 770 street avenger because the price was right....how will this be on my car? currently have a 600 cfm vacuum secondary on a ~8.5:1 400 with a .509 purple shaft, torker intake, 1 3/4 TTIs.....3000 stall B&M holeshot, 3.91s with 26" tall tires also, 30* initial, 55* total at 3000...

a guy at work has a holley 850 cfm....he's been told it's an 850 DP race carb....i haven't seen it yet nor does he know off hand what the part # is, but it was on a 355 chevy in a Z-car he bought....he wants/needs a smaller carb, and I have a 600 cfm vacuum secondary holley on my car...i know i...

on my 67 barracuda, i swapped the sender without even jacking it up. i don't know the physical attributes of a duster though

yeah...that's him

adam, there is a guy over on bigblockdart...i think his username is cuda66273 he has somne business...i asked him for some suggestions on mine, and he seems to me to be pretty knowledgeable, and said he can take all your specs and set up the carb for you before he ships it and it's supposed...

I had that problem on my 68 mustang a few years ago. tried a carb change....no good....tried tuning...no good.....plugs....no good.... I put in a pertronix and haven't had a problem since BUT this was on a ford