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exactly. i am going to cut my spacers tonight at work....i'm going to cut 2 1" thick, to get an inch difference, and then i'm going to cut a bunch of 1/4" pieces for fine tuning. (i can add spacers til my 60' falls off again, then go back one spacer and that'll give it optimum lift for my car.)

yeah, i took off the electric fans and put the flex fan on it. then i had to fabricate a shroud. then i put one of the fans back on the front after flipping the blade and reversing the wiring to make it a pusher. it fits pretty well over the tranny cooler, so that will help there too. then...

[email protected]. and the 60' is down to 1.818 now. excellent.

i haven't made my adjustable snubber yet, and i figure a stock one will be too far from the floor, so i'll have to set that up after I get a snubber made.

ok....looking at the timeslip page, i see that there are some people running low 12s with a slower 60' than me..... guess that just means they're making more topend HP than i am, or not getting a good launch. i just figured the S/S springs would be an easy 1/10 or 2 off my 60' and ET i...

hmm...must be the suspension setup.... i have .920 bars in front and regular parts-store shocks. to me, in the video, it doesn't seem to be lifting very much on the line. i need to get it out in the driveway and put it up near the stall and have the GF measure the rise in the rear. i may...

launch harder as in stage at a lower speed to give the converter more hit? moper: the car is 3200 or less with me in it. it's a 72 400 with about 8.5-9:1 CR 452 heads, some porting windage tray, deep oil pan Torker intake 770 cfm vac sec holley street avenger (jetted 72/75or76, bare sec...

here's a video: http://www.zippyvideos.com/58386900967565/dragstrip2_005/ but it doesn't show much....still have to teach the GF what i want

oh yeah....it has 3.91s and a B&M Holeshot 3000 converter. I can't tell it's bogging if it is. i only got a few runs on it because none of the tracks near me have any test & tune days...they are all race nights of some sort and the staging lanes are always packed.

OK....i was pulling 1.87-1.89 60' with the old worn out springs. I switched to 3000# S/S springs, and only gained a few 1/100. i think maybe there is maybe some engine tuning that needs to be done, but i don't remember what factors affect 60' the most....there is a list of things for each...

so which ones enter the water jacket? when i took out the old allen bolts, none of them seemed to have any kind of sealer on them, but ARP says to use their sealer, and all they supplied was moly lube.... i know all the bottom ones go into the water jacket....but what about the others? do i...

ok...so with loctite, what to torque the flexplate AND the TC bolts to???

I have new arp bolts for my flexplate, and was just going to use loctite on them, like normal practice, but ARP says to lube them with their lube or 30 weight oil, and then torque to such and such, depending on which lube so no loctite???????? i've always used loctite, as instructed by any...

well...don't know if this tells me anything, but my vacuum reading at 950 rpm idle in park is 10.5"Hg found my vacuum gauge, so i slapped it on 400, .509 cam, CR unknown then again, i didn't have it warmed up completely either.....

ok....let me see if i have this right.... the 400 is a "non-quench" motor. the B1Bs heads are a quench head, and need to have a tighter squish than what i'd have with the stock pistons and a .040 gasket....otherwise, there wouldn't be enough turbulence to keep the mixture well-mixed. then...

also remove the heater, wipers/motor, a fiberglass bumper with light brackets (i assume you meant not femders or doors by no fiberglass), carpet padding, if currently power steering, go manual, headers, aluminum heads, aluminum intake, aluminum water pump (and housing if big block), aluminum...

when you mill the heads, they will mill the intake side of the heads and then you won't have to mill the intake (this is what i've been told, so don't take that as concrete fact)

yeah....the thought behind it, though, is that if different heads were put on when the engine was built, they MAY have been milled........

yeah...so what i'm thinking....is if i have in _______area for a compression reading, as opposed to a _____area reading, then it's still low compression.....with the blanks being, for example, 90-130# and 180-200#, or something like that the engine was "built" few miles ago....i was told...

what i've been told: 72 RR 400, 452 heads, .509 cam what i know: 72 400 block, pistons have a pentastar and casting number on the inside of the skirt, so they MUST be stock, i assume, .509 cam IS true, 452 heads what I don't know: milling amount (if any), gasket, and current cranking...

i don't know if there's adifferencs IN them or not...i'm guessing not...i think the big difference in price is the cost of the valves...the mopar valves are more expensive...

So....there are the bare heads for $1480/pair, and I can install new Manley's for $200-300, and use my existing springs and retainers Then there is the pair complete (crate engine heads) for $2000 Which????

does your steering column sleeve come out as far? or do all manual steering cars have a short sleeve?

oh, ok.....the tranny mount is connected, so i assume that everything is in the right place..... and i checked the height, and it may be 1/4-1/2" higher than the measured height on TTI's site....probably ok, but i just eyeballed the height, so it could actually be right on

all they had was height and left-right....no forward/aft

OK....I have issues with my engine placement...i have NO idea if it's close to where it should be for conversion mounts and/or headers......also deals with my steering column.... FIRST: in the first picture, it shows the oil pump relationship to the K-member....is it right for the conversion...

How about putting the headers in the engine compartment and tying them to the inner wheelwells close to their final position then drop in the motor sounds like the easiest way to me

i measured .109.....so add that to .400, and I have a .509.....WOOHOO

DUH!!! silly me....you can't accurately check lift and duration at the rocker or valve......the lifters bleed down, right?? *about* how much plunger travel do hydraulic lifters have????

is there a way to estimate CR, by checking compression and figuring cam specs???? or can i go to a major manufacturer and say "i have these specs, and this much cranking cylinder pressure" and them be able to suggest a better cam? because cylinder pressure is more a factor that compression...